Hello, new member from Ohio

Welcome! And congrats on finishing your Mopar Looking forward to following your hunt for the right car.
Cheers, Tim.

NGC, be aware that Pantera are all steel unibodies, built from non-rustproofed panels. If you've ever played around with old British or Italian cars from the '60s, you'll feel right at home! The wiring is mostly Lucas, with all that fact means. I suggest you VERY carefully examine any possible project cars for rust, maybe use a Bondo-meter as there are some excellent plastic sculptures around.... One missing an engine is not much or a problem except for the special bracket that mounts the A/C & alternator & special crank and waterpump pullies. One missing the transaxle, or a noisy, notchy-shifting ZF can be a $6000-$11,000 problem.
On the good side, 'matching numbers' mean nothing to the DeTomaso community. Don't be put off by a modified example- the Pantera is the modern analogue to a '32 Ford roadster or a mid '60s Jaguar. 'Stock' is often worth less than a tastefully modified one, and a completely stock example is less satisfying to drive hard over any distance. So it usually works out best that one should buy the best running example they can find. The same amount of cash will leave your pocket but over a different span of time than a basket case, and you'll gain a car you can drive during the years you'll spend making it like you want it.
This forum and the POCA forum are excellent info- sources as long as your BS-filter is working, and there are a host of manuals, DVDs, and pubs of all kinds available for your background research. Don't be in a hurry unless you are a recent lottery winner. The community will help you find and evaluate a suitable car- just ask us and someone will know the vehicle or will go with you to check it out; there are members in all states and most foeign countries. Stay far away from E-Bay or Craig's List cars unless you are highly experienced with using them. Frauds are everywhere but since there are only maybe 4500 running examples of Panteras left world-wide, and we keep close track of the cars (and crooks), they are usually failures at their little-kid scams.

Check out my 'how to buy' page to start your journey:
http://www.banzairunnerpantera.com/how_to_buy.htm

thanks for the advice, i will certainly keep it in mind as I look. Im not in a hury, but ready to buy if i find the right project car.

Hey NGC

thanks for the intro and welcome.

-G

Welcome!! What part of Ohio are you from?

I live in Wadsworth, OH. Thats about 45 min south of Cleveland, OH.

NGC414,

Welcome to the Forum. Yes, as Jack states, the unit bodies are the most expensive to deal with; at least to get them correct. Your 68 B body is a good comparison. Knowing that repair panels are generally not available for Panteras compared to B bodies -- do not even THINK of purchasing something, with just a "little bit" of rust. You will definitely be sorry; especially when you strip it and find that the cancer spread pretty much everywhere, or worse, you see that the car that "looked" good was actually covered with Bondo to hide everything.

Poor man's Ferrari? You bet, only better; much better!!!!

Best of luck finding the RIGHT car!

I do not know if it would work well or not, but calling the Pantera vendors might find you something to start with, or they may know of a good sound car that someone is trying to sell. Never hurts to ask.

Mark

Welcome to the forum. Good luck on your search.

Welcome NNG, but I am of the opinion, that unless you are a master of sheet metal construction and restoration as well as a multi-millonaire,you are by far better off buying a well sorted car that has been inspected by experts and found to be pristine. For what it costs to restore a car like mine, you could buy a brand new Ferrarri. Maybe even a Bugatti Verone. I am NOT exagerating. Well maybe just a little but there are guys who spend six figures restoring these things.

Here you go.. http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/1844752068.html