Has anyone ever used a Manometer to determine the High and Low pressure areas on the Pantera. ie..areas that might be used to
draft out hot air, either in the engine area, or around the radiator??
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Yes. I use a glass can with colored water.
A pitot tube for stable atmospheric pressure.
And a number of hose to mount at different places around the car, with special sender units, taped on the body. In the floor I simpley drill holes with tubes to attach a hose.
This way I can record the funktion of the wing. Vacum-pressure under the car etc.
In front of the radiator, the type of spoiler used has a big influence.
Goran Malmberg.
A pitot tube for stable atmospheric pressure.
And a number of hose to mount at different places around the car, with special sender units, taped on the body. In the floor I simpley drill holes with tubes to attach a hose.
This way I can record the funktion of the wing. Vacum-pressure under the car etc.
In front of the radiator, the type of spoiler used has a big influence.
Goran Malmberg.
No real airflow studies have been done, but photos of Pantera at Bonneville and El MIrage dry lakes show an enormous flow of asir out the rear window opening and perhaps 20 ft high. This leads to the speculation that LOTS of air goes uner the car and is pulled out by the shape of the decklid forming a giant low-pressure area at speed. In the current POCA newsletter (a monthly), I speculate further on how air flows in front around the radiator, when it is either as-stock (straight up) or leaned fwd at 45 degrees as many modified Panteras are rigged 2-pg article so it won't be reprinted here, but is available through POCA
This makes the car different from f,ex Porsche that has a big rear lift due to the fastback wing shape. There is no significant lift force at the Pantera hood.
And the rest under the hood is open to the road. Instead of lifting, the air pulls out the hood opening.
This action probably hurt Cd but reducing lift.
As the air pressure equalize via the hood opening, I could not record ANY vacuum-pressure difference over or under the flat hood area. Of course there is a difference as the air obviously passes out, but in the order of mm/water.
At the same event I measured a minus 3 inch of water, right on the underside of the wing
and one inch of pressure on the top surface of the wing. Hood area directly under the wing was zero pressure-vacuum. This is NOT the case with the wing in its original location.
Measured at 80 mph.
Goran Malmberg.
And the rest under the hood is open to the road. Instead of lifting, the air pulls out the hood opening.
This action probably hurt Cd but reducing lift.
As the air pressure equalize via the hood opening, I could not record ANY vacuum-pressure difference over or under the flat hood area. Of course there is a difference as the air obviously passes out, but in the order of mm/water.
At the same event I measured a minus 3 inch of water, right on the underside of the wing
and one inch of pressure on the top surface of the wing. Hood area directly under the wing was zero pressure-vacuum. This is NOT the case with the wing in its original location.
Measured at 80 mph.
Goran Malmberg.
Sorry, forgot.
My car is a GT-5 design. Tilted radiator all the way to the front cross member.
In the location of the T-emblem there is a pressure of 4-5 inches of water at 80 mph.
The hood outlet show a pressure of 1/2 inch.
This is probbably due to the big quantities of air tying to get out. My car is totally blocked off front underside. Air is passing out the hood and wheel openings.
Image at http://hem.passagen.se/hemipanter/
Goran Malmberg.
My car is a GT-5 design. Tilted radiator all the way to the front cross member.
In the location of the T-emblem there is a pressure of 4-5 inches of water at 80 mph.
The hood outlet show a pressure of 1/2 inch.
This is probbably due to the big quantities of air tying to get out. My car is totally blocked off front underside. Air is passing out the hood and wheel openings.
Image at http://hem.passagen.se/hemipanter/
Goran Malmberg.
Thanks for the replys. Goran: I don't know how you managed that beautiful engine in there, but I can see that changing the Spark Plugs would be alot easier. Jack: I did
see your article in POCA, and like all others are quite informative. I am still using the original raidiator. with 12" pusher fans. Can this be laid down using a Kit?? and then I would change them to sucker fans. thanks.
see your article in POCA, and like all others are quite informative. I am still using the original raidiator. with 12" pusher fans. Can this be laid down using a Kit?? and then I would change them to sucker fans. thanks.
I just like to clearify that laying down the radiator all the way that I did, was a way to make use of the original disign hood outlet. I had the idea of keeping car stock design.
For the use of sucker fans, one can be a little more restrictive in "lay down" angle.
Goran Malmberg.
For the use of sucker fans, one can be a little more restrictive in "lay down" angle.
Goran Malmberg.
Karl, you don't really need a kit on the stock type radiator. Pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop. Tell them you want the left bracket removed, turned 180 degrees and re-soldered on the right side. The same goes for the other bracket. Also tell them to extend the entry/exit pipes by 4", or cut the bends off & roll a bead on the two stubs. This will lay the stock radiator down to within 2" of the hood-hinge plate and uses all-stock bolts & grommets. The upper rd cover will need to be severely narrowed, or you can fab a new one from sheet metal..You will have to cut away the stock fan mounts; I suggest you use a Flexilite double fan-with-shround on the backside of the laid-fwd radiator. The Flexilite is about 3" thick, which is why we extend the in/out pipes (for hose clearance), or cut them off & use rt-angle hoses. Everything clears but be very sure both new fans are running the correct direction. This will triple your low-speed air flow thru the radiator, & will almost guarantee cooler running around town.