Hot starting problem

The typical fix is to remove the big braided ground cable on the transaxle (which MUST be in place), wire-brush the heck out of the cable ends and the body/tranny case and reinstall tightly. Some guys add a second ground cable between the rear of the head or bellhousing and the frame near the slave cylinder assembly. Note that without a big ground cable between engine and frame, you're depending on the engine & tranny mount bolts, which are rubber-insulated, to return some 400+ amps of power from the starter back to the battery. The load is even worse when the engine is hot. A good ground & a gear drive starter should spin a smoking-hot 10:1 engine with little problem.

I GOT RID OF THE "BRAIDED" GROUNDING STRAP AT THE TRANSAXLE TAIL, AND REPLACED IT WITH A MORE SOLID "BATTERY CABLE" STYLE GROUNDING CABLE . ALSO, A SECOND CABLE FROM THE FRAME DIRECTLY TO THE STARTER MOTOR IS AN EXCELENT IDEA! ALSO CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE BATTERY, ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CABLE TO THE FLOOR OF THE FRONT TRUNK, RIGHT BESIDE THE BATTERY! REMOVE THAT UP AND CLEAN IT WELL, CLEAN ALL OTHER CONNECTIONS! YOU HAVE ALREADY BEEN AT THAT STARTER CONNECTION! SEE IF THIS IMPROVES YOUR CRANKING POWER! GOOD-LUCK WITH IT! REGARDS, MARLIN.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 07-05-2002).]

All this is true, but power will take the path of least restance. so one good ground..
(I ran mine from under car to bellhousing) 0/1 gage, 2nd- the only ground the car knows is the batt, so the ground at the batt must be the same size. 3rd- over time power thro a wire will corrode and oxadize the wire. plus the wire is 10 foot long. run a new 0/1 gage power wire. ps while your at it. the factory gave you a 10 gage wire comming off the alt. an alt. in my book needs a 6 gage or better.
also- check your timing.

[This message has been edited by rtaspl (edited 07-07-2002).]