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D940D65E-A991-49AC-99C2-0096688EB938AED24343-759E-49FC-9D95-CB56AB634B2B
I want to create a chromed gauge panel trim for all four sides of the new horizontal panel I have fabricated for 2511. I have collected OEM panel trim for this project to provide the raw material for the new, larger trim piece.
The project will require joining pieces to provide the longer lengths needed for the top and right hand portions of the trim.
I intend to have the finished piece chrome plated to mimic the OEM trim. I have access to a local chrome shop and they have indicated they are willing and able to take on the project when I get it to them.
I am hoping the forum wisdom can guide and advise me on my options:
TIG?  Brazing? Solder?  
Also, and probably more important, is my need for someone who possesses the skill set to do this for me. :-|
Thanks,
Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511
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 To add some clarity, the channel base metal is brass that has been chrome plated. I am thinking I need to remove the plating down to bare brass at each joint.  

Then join them with a process that will accept chrome and have the revised trim replated. 

 (The factory corners definitely appear to have been brazed.)

 I plan to build one long piece to cover the top edge and bend and join the pieces necessary to form a U-shaped portion to cover the other three sides. 

 

if you remove the chrome in the corners THEN it will be asy to hard solder (850+ Celsius with decent silver solder Ag as high as possible = lower solder temp but strong enrough)

you need to see what happens to the "thickness" in the corners where the  chrome was OFF..as new Chrome will leave a slope/step.

I would try to leave as much as possible Chrome on the visible side, only remove it on the back side and then hard solder it. I assume a thin layer of chrome then would do, def on the visible side.

I DO NOT KNOW the min thickness required to really have the chrome stick - needs a chat with your chrome folks...you probably need to "swivel" it down a bit.

One more issue: if you bend the chrome plated U shape rails the chrome will crack..so Guess is better cutting real edges then hard solder them....this is all EXPERIMENTAL..you need to run some tests..

Matthias

Last edited by matg

Larry,

Bending and fabricating the right side from the two pieces you have will deform the channel, if you could find another left hand side trim it would simplify your task as the right should be mirror image and flip of the left. This way you would only be soldering the corner joints where you can also trim a little chamfer on the gauge panel to accommodate the solder inside the join if necessary.

Julian

6C38333D-4507-489A-A47C-5A7F3D759E81 The original left-hand piece can be slightly  re-curved to function as the new left-hand piece. But, a left-hand piece cannot be flipped to use on the right hand side as it is too short, and the channel is not symmetrical.  I could overcome the length problem but trimming the wider backside would be a major pain. 

 Julian’s suggestion of a chamfer on the panel to allow for the increased thickness at the joint is what I have been planning on. 

 But remember, the factory did successfully bend this channel and did successfully braze it together. 

 Please remember I am asking what the best way is to join together two pieces of brass. I believe it can be TIG welded and I am still looking for confirmation of that. 

 And I still need a craftsman capable of performing the task. I have considered silver solder here at home and will be exploring that path with my remaining scrap pieces of trim 

Larry

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Got it on the front vs. back dimensions, thanks. Brass can be TIG welded (brazed) but small parts like that are going to be very difficult as brass is very thermally conductive and requires quite a bit of heat, which will want to vaporize the zinc. As posted on the email forum I think your best bet would be an time jeweler / watch maker with a micro-torch to braze.

Julian

E4C11D9C-58B1-4AC6-A29F-77850CD2158CDC11F07B-709D-4372-AB6B-E3B0A4B2D4299517DE62-36B5-428B-A6C6-4DA01F745988E8DBF3F3-50BC-4460-8612-D09F90D798E6UPDATE 😁😁

as the photos will show, the project has been successfully completed.

by mixing and matching portions of the stock trim I was able to assemble the pieces in the shapes that were needed  

I built aluminum “bucks” to hold everything in alignment; 11 pieces, 10 welds.

I found a skilled TIG welder who joined my pieces with silicon bronze rod.

I spent I don’t know how many dozens of hours filing and 300 grit sanding the TIG joints, and removing the original Chrome.

my local chrome shop took on the project and two months later it was in my hands.

The finished project faithfully mimics the original trim on the smaller gauge panel and looks like it was stock

I love it when a plan comes together  

Larry

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Last edited by lf-tp2511

EA7D9F88-DE2B-478F-949E-1DE64174E241Percy,

thank you for noticing. I  chose them precisely because they do resemble the factory thumbscrews used on the fuse panel covers.

The factory thumbscrews are an M5 thread.

to mount my new gauge panel I used caged nuts (as used on the steel firewall cover) to allow adjustment for some misalignment between the base and panel. Rather than hunt down M5 caged nuts I used 10-32 nuts that I had on hand. As those and the stock M5 threads are very close in size I just re-tapped the fuse panel to accept the 10-32 thumbscrews

I purchased my stainless steel screws from eBay. Search “M5 thumbscrews” and you will have more choices than you know what to do with. I chose to polish my stainless steel thumb screws to match the gauge trim, but there are anodized aluminum thumbscrews in every color of the rainbow. Must be a import car thing

Larry

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