Normally my 72 starts and runs well. Once in a while it will turn over without starting. If I disconnect and reconnect battery it will fire up. I also can leave it for a while and it will start again. This happened again today and the windows wouldn’t work either. Did the battery thing and worked fine. Is there a relay or something not working properly?
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If I was trying to troubleshoot, I'd first be interested in knowing what ignition system you are using.... and how it's wired... direct through the ignition switch, or on a separately fused, relay driven ignition power circuit.
The fact that the windows didn't work seems to point to a larger problem than an intermittent connection to your ignition system...
More details would be helpful. I can't think of why the windows and the ignition would be simultaneously affected, unless it's a problem in the ignition switch itself, in which you can engage the solenoid in the momentary plosition, but have no "juice" flowing in the "Run" (On) position.
Did other stuff work or not work in "Run"? If you can duplicate the issue, try checking other electrical functions - lots of circuits operate through that ignition switch IIRC.
Rocky
How old is the battery? If it is older than 4 or 5 years it could be part of the problem.
I agree with Steve, I would start with the battery. Low voltage could cause your issues.
Since removing battery cable and reconnecting seems to make a difference I would suggest a thorough cleaning of the posts and cable ends as a first step.
Thanks for all the feedback. The battery was new January 2021. I keep it charged. I will check the connections.
When this issue occurs, the engine turns over fine, just doesn’t fire. The engine uses the original distributor with points and condenser. I was planning to replace all the engine electrical components before I noticed the windows not working when this happens. The fan does come on when the key is switched on. I was also driving when this happened. Shut down and wouldn’t start. Maybe a loose wire somewhere.
...Original Distributor? I would measure the 'Points' GAP. Sounds like they have closed down a-bit. Or they're just Burned-Up. Just a Bad Capacitor would cause points to burn out.!
You have to Check for Spark getting to the Plugs, DURING Cranking. Check the Voltage at the Coil, should be Over 10. Volts there. You'll probably find, Only 7. Volts there. Remember, there's the Ballast Resister. Also.
MJ
If it stopped dead on you while the motor is on, it is not around the battery. If the windows don't work in this condition and you unplug the lead to the coil (to get the windows working), it could be the points...but could also be the ignition switch overheating (allowing enough for the fan relay to work, but still resistive enough to end up short on voltage everywhere else).
Panteraplace has incredibly good, easy to follow wiring drawings. http://www.panteraplace.com/El...ITCH%20RUN%20BUS.pdf The between power sources (battery/alternator) and the ignition coil is super simple, and the only thing in common with the windows is the switch.
Thanks for all the information
The windows run off fuse 8. Check the connections in your fuse box.
Maybe on your car but most windows are on fuses 13 and 14.
maybe I was off on which fuse it was.
Forest is correct. '72 and later and some late 71's are fuses 13 and 14. Most 71's are both on fuse 11. Fuse 8 is unswitched.
John
