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On a stock fender car, the prefered offsets are: Front, 4.75 for 8 inch rim, 5.25 for 9 inch rim, 4.25 for 7 inch rim. Rear, 5.0 for a 9 inch rim, 6 for a 10 inch rim, 6.5 for an 11 inch rim. This is the distance from the mounting surface of the hub to the rear most lip of the rim, NOT THE TIRE BEAD Subtract .25 if your dimentions are to the tire bead.
does this work with 15" wheels on a none flaired car
quote:
Originally posted by CrazyDave:
On a stock fender car, the prefered offsets are: Front, 4.75 for 8 inch rim, 5.25 for 9 inch rim, 4.25 for 7 inch rim. Rear, 5.0 for a 9 inch rim, 6 for a 10 inch rim, 6.5 for an 11 inch rim. This is the distance from the mounting surface of the hub to the rear most lip of the rim, NOT THE TIRE BEAD Subtract .25 if your dimentions are to the tire bead.
Hey Donny.
Like yourself, I am also looking to go from 15" wheels to 17's for my 74 with the GT5 body kit. Have you been able to determine what the wheel offsets should be from the front and rear????? I do like Marino's 2 spoke GT5 replicas in 17x13 and 17x11, but I hope to find an alternative to his price of $3295 for rims alone. And any help I can get would be appreciated. But I have found a guy at WWW.CCWHEEL.com that sells modular wheels to the Viper racing guys, I believe his are priced around $500 per wheel. And he has multiple offsets. I am just not sure if I "really" like this design, but for the price, it become rather attractive.

quote:
Originally posted by Donny:
How about for a flared Car? I think I am going to go down the same path and ditch the 15s....
A word of caution for do-it-yourself wheel-builders: please don't run three-piece racing wheels on the street. They are NOT designed to take constant stress without very frequent tear-downs, like they get on racing circuits. The Pantera community has had wrecks, body damage and total losses as a direct result of throwing a set of bolt-together racing wheels on a Pantera, and doing little except an annual tire pressure check. The bolts snap or back out, the o-ring seals leak and the rim-halves even crack in two! Personally, I'd select wheels from one of the vendors, who has done his homework, rather than literally reinventing my wheels. The Pantera is a heavy, powerful car and metal fatigue happens! Attempting to prove this wrong will only exercise your heart-rate and your AAA towing card, IMHO.
I posted a couple weeks ago that I would like to sell my 17" Hall MKX (their Gp4 look that they have on their Ultra Pantera "Purple Passion"). They are for flared cars and have the Michelin Pilots on them. I am just interested in trying something different but not until I can have mine sold. Email me at ziggymeredith@insightbb.com if interested.
I revisited this old post to add my information.

Did some of my own backspacing measuring on my Hall billet wheels that I think fit nicely on the stock body cars.
The Hall wheels 17X11 Rear have a 6" backspace this is measured from mounting flange to back lip of rim where tire seats(inner flange)

The 17X8 front wheels have a 5" back space

These wheels have a nice look and dont rub on my stock 71 pushbutton also had them on 73 with Willwood disk brakes front and rear and Hall aluminum upper and lower A arms front and rear with no rubbing but the fenders were rolled. I think they might of stuck out about a 1/4 to 1/2" more due to the aftermarket brake hats and adjustable A arms

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Last edited by markm
I have my backspacing written down at home for a flared car. I measured the backspacing from a set of GT5S wheels before I sold them. I checked them three times and have ordered my new wheels already. The front wheel arrived last week and they look like a perfect match. The new wheels are 17x10 fronts and 17x13 rears.
I will post again when I have access to my notes.
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