Oil leak

As I remember (its BC time - before coffee)it is a regular seal.

Seems like one could pull the ZF and replace the seal. I did mine on the engine stand during a full rebuild.

Good luck.

I wish you were correct. After posting, I started using Google. The rear main is a two part rope seal, and the upgrade is a different material. Can't imagine doing this w/o pulling the engine.

Yes? No?

I too did this when I had the engine out. From what I remember you need to remove the rear crankshaft cap to remove and install the seal. The original seal is a rope seal that should be able to be rotated out if you drop the crank a bit. That means the oil pan comes out too. The new seal is a rubber 2 piece seal that seems to work well if it is installed properly.

The CJ is the rope seal. The Boss is neoprene.

There is a pin (nail) that retains the top half (keeps it from spinning) so you can't tap the top out without lowering the crank.

Not fun, but it can be done.

It CAN be the rear oil pan gasket.

The original cork oil pan gaskets shrink with time and will drip through the bolt holes.

That is actually more common then the seal leaking.

If you think it is the seal, try some Lucas wonder oil first. Whatever the secret stuff is that the put in there is better then Carter's Little Liver Pills.

No rope in my motor. but then, its been beat up, abused and rebuilt a few time over the years.

quote:

Originally posted by snaponbob:
I wish you were correct. After posting, I started using Google. The rear main is a two part rope seal, and the upgrade is a different material. Can't imagine doing this w/o pulling the engine.

Yes? No?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:



If you think it is the seal, try some Lucas wonder oil first.

What is this wonder oil you speak of, oh teacher ?!?!?!?!

Lucas makes several stop leak formula add ons. Go read the labels and see which one fits the bill. Don't know if they have a web site.

Personally without even looking, I'll be the leak is the oil pan gasket.

I tried on previous Pantera to change from rope to modern without taking the engine out. Got the oil pan out, lowered the crank a bit, bought special tool on efraud to get the rope out. Wasn't able to. In the end, took engine out, took the opportunity to replace valve stem seals that were hardened and all over the engine.

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:
I tried on previous Pantera to change from rope to modern without taking the engine out. Got the oil pan out, lowered the crank a bit, bought special tool on efraud to get the rope out. Wasn't able to. In the end, took engine out, took the opportunity to replace valve stem seals that were hardened and all over the engine.

Yes, the risk is that you won't be able to clean out all the pieces of the seal. It tends to harden like the valve stem seals do.

The factory used a hardening shellac sealer on it originally and the stuff is nasty to clean off under those conditions of laying on your back with the crankshaft dangling above your head.

If the engine sat too long, that helped the seal dry out and harden.

IF it is the seal and not the pan gaskets, try the Lucas. It works in a large percentage of the cases. It may help the gaskets find a little life left in them also.

It only costs $10 so it's worth a shot.