oil pan crossmember

Pantera Performace in Castle Rock. CO. Goes on very easy.

Thanks!

SACC Restorations has both the steel and the aluminum removeable crossmember kits.

http://www.saccrestorations.net

IPSCO

Removable Cross Member

Or...

http://www.saccrestorations.net/crossmember-1/

Thank you all for the great info! Will this cross member work with a 10qt. oil pan?

Question for the smart guys...

Is the removable e-brake bracket (also available at the links above) also recommended?

Thanks -

Rocky

It's one in the same.

No, there are two brackets...

The Cross Member:

Steel or Aluminum?

and the e-Brake Bracket:

Hand Brake Lever Bracket

Hmm. Not on mine. I cut the triangular e-brake bracket which is what prevents the oil pan from being dropped, then installed the "Hand brake lever assembly" as shown in your picture.

Joe, the removeable crossmembers fit Pantera 10-qt pans- at least the Aviaid and Armando units. They are true bolt-ons. Those Mustang pans with side kick-outs won't clear the frame rails.

I need something to do considering there is 18 inches of snow outside and no one is going anywhere soon.

Does anyone have photos of how they did the mod they can post? I probably don't need them. Just like to look at pictures?

Any recommendations on using the steel or the aluminum part?

Bosswrench. I assume you just took your Sawzall and cut the welded in cross member out of there?

I guess it would be the simplest to just buy the pre-made removable hand brake kit from IPSCO?

Is there any reason the original couldn't be reused for this by just welding on flanges to bolt it back on?

quote:

Is the removable e-brake bracket (also available at the links above) also recommended?

Chuck,

Yes, or just weld a piece of angle iron to the frame. The problem that I have seen is that if the e-brake bracket is left in the stock position (vertically), the cables exit the bracket at a slight downward angle. This is caused by the aftermarket oil pan hitting the cables.

John

quote:

Is there any reason the original couldn't be reused for this by just welding on flanges to bolt it back on?

Nope. That works too.

John

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

Does anyone have photos of how they did the mod they can post?
Any recommendations on using the steel or the aluminum part?

Bosswrench: I assume you just took your Sawzall and cut the welded in cross member out of there?

Is there any reason the original couldn't be reused for this by just welding on flanges to bolt it back on?

I guess it would be the simplest to just buy the pre-made removable hand brake kit from IPSCO?

THe ZF was out when I did mine (1995), but it can be cut while the trans is in place, with lots of care and much patience. I've seen it done at afternoon Tech Sessions (about 3 incredibly filthy hrs of work under the car). There are tabs on all 4 sides that are supposed to be spot-welded to the frame holding this vital part. Some welds were broken and a couple looked like they had never joined metal together on our car. Sloppy- or a hard life! At least the sides of the frame rails must be clean & flat, to get a new assembly to fit snugly. If it doesn't, you'll be pulling in or pushing out the rails, which will change your rear wheel alignment. Make & add shims if necessary to get a snug fit. Note- ALL Panteras will have dimensions between rails slightly different here, depending on how much rear frame collapse has occurred in your car.

Once the stock assembly was completely cut away, I cleaned the rails with a sidewinder. A glance at the complicated, heavy steel weldment I'd just removed, and I fabricated a lighter, stiffer crossmember from thickwalled 1-1/2" OD aluminum water pipe to exactly fit. My crossmember has NO extra bolts holding it in place. It is held between the rails by the big stock nuts & washers retaining the front lower rear a-arm pivots. My new crossmember flange has a slot in each end.

Thus to remove my crossmember, I loosen the 2 a-arm nuts (I made room in the design for a box-end wrench to move one flat at a time), rotate the pipe crossmember 180 degrees, and it drops out the bottom. Goes back in again with as little trouble. It's also 1 lb lighter than a stocker, as stiff or stiffer in compression, and gives slightly more clearance for the Aviaid pan. This would be difficult-to-impossible with a modified stock part. Never seen IPSCO parts except in photos.

As for the cut off e-brake bracket- sure, you can weld or bolt an angle-iron to the cut-away stock bracket, and bolt the whole thing back into the frame with LARGE self-tapping screws. Just be sure to get it back exactly where it was originally, or you may change the bellcrank leverage & will then need to readjust all the cables.