Skip to main content

I didn’t see this car discussed here during the auction. It appears to have sold at no reserve. Did it? If so, I was wondering who may have bought it. There’s a lot on work into the car and a lot of things I like. Couldn’t touch that build for $62k. The flares look a little unusual to me though it may just be the ride height and pictures. I don’t think I’d choose to build a Twin Turbo mill on a C block. I don’t see any signs of intercooling nor mention of detonation control schemes (though they may be there) so who knows how much boost it may be capable of safely sustaining. Also, with any degree of boost, that must be a hell of Holley carb sitting on top that induction system. For such an engine I’d think that EFI with a suitable ECU to map fuel, ignition, meth/H20 injection, traction/boost control, would be in order but just the same, plenty of ways to do without that stuff and I’d like to hear about it. Anyone on here buy the car?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAPPE...=true&rt=nc#ht_0wt_0

Best,
K
Last edited {1}
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Kelly,

There was some discussion on the e-mail forum. I had posed a question about the turbo setup with the carb on top as I didn't see how that pressurized, but I had it explained to me and apparently that system would be fairly low boost levels.

Someone said it was a race car that a previous owner had said would be very difficult to put back on the road, so not sure what that meant. I loved the look of the car and do think the low stance with 19" rear wheels was what made the flares look unusual.

Also the doors appeared unfinished, no door handles or window glass.

Julian
Its an attractive car, in a group 4 resto-mod kinda way. 17" front wheels, 19" rear wheels. I sure like that 2" stagger in wheel diameters.

Kelly, isn't it a rule of thumb you can boost inlet pressure by about 1/2 atmosphere without an inter-cooler?

I'm going to upload a few of the pics for posterity.
Left front 3/4

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 6931-1C
Last edited by George P
quote:
There was some discussion on the e-mail forum. I had posed a question about the turbo setup with the carb on top as I didn't see how that pressurized, but I had it explained to me and apparently that system would be fairly low boost levels.

Looks to be draw through, which was one of the things that piqued my interest. There are definitely limitations to draw through (or even blow through). Properly mapping A/F ratio to boosted signal in a carb is no small feat. Get it wrong, and you’ll be sweeping up the mess. It’s old school approach and with the advent of ECUs, most don’t go this route these days.
quote:
Someone said it was a race car that a previous owner had said would be very difficult to put back on the road, so not sure what that meant. I loved the look of the car and do think the low stance with 19" rear wheels was what made the flares look unusual.

With that body work, paint job, interior, and boost set up, doesn’t look like a race car to me. More street/show car. May have been difficult but I’d say mission accomplished for putting it back on the road…..but the auction doesn’t say anything about how it runs.
quote:
Kelly, isn't it a rule of thumb you can boost inlet pressure by about 1/2 atmosphere without an inter-cooler?

Completely dependent upon the initial compression ratio of the engine of course, but if it was purpose built for pump gas and ½ an atm boost, 8:1 seems a fairly common static/initial CR. In crude terms at full boost you can think of it as 12:1 at full fan. Of course, how and when it comes on the boost can be a whole other matter.
I’ve toyed with the idea of a boosted engine for my car but from my perspective, I wouldn’t consider adding all the weight, overhead, and just general complexity and unless it was at least 1-ATM boost capable. When 600-650HP is in reach from a normally aspirated all alloy mill that approaches 400lbs, what’s a ½ ATM going to get you? In theory, 50% more power but from what starting point? –Not 650HP. However, if you were willing to run an alternate fuel or meth/H20 injection, higher boost/power could be possible from that set up. If all you wanted to do was just occasionally tap that power to put a grin on your face, that’d probably be fine, but from my view, for all around street car it would need to be intercooled and depending upon boost level, maybe even a meth squirter for high boost.
It’s really a non-trivial task to select the turbos and manage oil pressure, boost control, detonation control, heat, etc. Done right it can be quite a thrill. -Horses for courses.

If you’ve ever driven a boosted street car that’s North of 1000HP, it’s a whole new world. You can get yourself in trouble in a hurry and you really can’t use the power in the lower gears and speeds but you cant keep street tires stuck to the ground below 100mph and your drive train is cryin’ for mama!.....which is a whole other issue in a Pantera.

Let’s hope the owner chimes in. I’d like to learn more about the car. It still looks like a heckuva buy at $62k to me but sort of depends on how thoughtfully put together and sorted that engine is.

Best,
K
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Charlton:
I can't say that Grabber blue is my first choice, but the stance and overall impact of that car is awesome.

Mark


I was very taken with it and have been contemplating the color for my '74, which is (still) part way through a GP4 conversion. I would go more satin black and also add it below the door crease though.

Julian
quote:
Originally posted by Kjeld Pedersen:
Yes great looking car.
Big wide wheels is making the half of a Cars look.
I amm planing to use Chris Coddington wheels Gotcha Series - C73 in 20x12 in front and 20x15 in back for a widebody projeckt.
Wide and low!
Anybody who Can surgest good tyres for this dimensions

Kjeld.


20" ? Roll Eyes
i even find the 19" here in the rear tooooo big for a Pantera.Not a car with wheels but wheels with a car on Big Grin
quote:
Originally posted by Joules:
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Charlton:
I can't say that Grabber blue is my first choice, but the stance and overall impact of that car is awesome.

Mark


I was very taken with it and have been contemplating the color for my '74, which is (still) part way through a GP4 conversion. I would go more satin black and also add it below the door crease though.

Julian



Like this one?
http://i-cms.linternaute.com/i...ntera-gr-iv-1973.jpg

http://www.ultimatecarpage.com...lery/lmc08/13060.jpg
I like it!
quote:
Originally posted by Kjeld Pedersen:
I am planing to use Chris Coddington wheels Gotcha Series - C73 in 20x12 in front and 20x15 in back for a widebody projeckt.
Wide and low!
Anybody who Can surgest good tyres for this dimensions
Kjeld.


Kjeld, George the Webmaster here has (or had) 19s on the front & 20s on the rear, for sale with near-new tires. Give him a private e-mail and ask to see his photos. With his choices, no flairs were needed!
The Ebay listing for that blue GT4 stated it had 345/45-19" rear tyres.
They are not 45 profile, but 35 profile.

I have very similar set I made for my car.
Front: 285/40-17 Bridgestone on 17x9.5" three piece rims.
Rear: 345/35-19 Bridgestone Scuderia on 19x13" three piece rims.

You can purchase the tyres from tire rack in the USA at good prices.

Heres a picture of the massive rear:

regards,
Tony.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Rear_complete_A_copy
The Michelin Pilots on my car are actually 30s….345/30/ZR19. The auction says the tire on that car are Nitto’s. I can’t find any Nitto’s listed in that size with either the 45 or 35 profile but Invo’s and NT05s are listed in 345/30/19. At the time I did my car, I may have opted for a 35 or 45 profile but I believe the 30s were standard issue on ZR1 Corvettes so I thought the chances were that size would be better supported and available in the future. Considering the investment in wheels and fitment of flares, seemed like the right decision. However, I would have opted for a taller profile at the time because it’s much cheaper than a taller ring and pinion, in fact if you want taller gearing which is certainly welcome with bigger displacement and higher torque mills. In the near future I’ll have a 3.78 instead of 4.22 crown. If you do the math, one can achieve significant final drive and engine rpm changes with those taller profiles, especially when applied to the very wide 345. As an aside, Nitto NT05s are drag radials and I would not put those on my car. I have life left on my Michelins, but when their time comes, I’d put a set of Niitto NT01s on there in a blink if they were available.

Best,
K
Last edited by panterror

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×