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I would seek the advice of board moderator Mark, who is in the auto body profession. As I recall yes you can color sand single stage but attention must be paid to how many coats were applied. As for runs, they can be tricky, take your time and sand the high spot only.
Good one George! Razzer

Husker, I've had good luck using a good old fashion razor blade, If your not comfortable with that, I suggest a "color sand stone". Don't use sand paper to cut a run, it usally results in burning through on either side of the run.
Simply "drag" the blade over the run until it's level with sides, color sand and polish like normal.

Mark(not a moderator)6808
Husker,
Yes, you can color sand single stage paint. However, how much material you can take off depends on whether it is a metallic or straight color. If you sand too much on a metallic color and cut through one layer to another, it will produce a "halo" effect around the repair. As for runs, one of the best tools to use is to cut a 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch piece of mill cut autobody file and round off the edges. Then you can use the center teeth of the file, which are very sharp, to cut down the run before switching to a smooth grit sandpaper (800 or better). If you take your time, the run will blend in with the rest of the paint. Obviously, this technique doesn't work with metallic paints.
quote:
color sand stone


They are available from Meguiars. I wouldn't use anything stronger than a 1500 grit stone, you'll be surprised how aggressive it is. Soak it in water overnight before you use it. The beauty is that they only take off the high spot when you do it right. Lastly, go slow. Sand a little then wipe it off to see where you are, then do a little more; it's easy to overdo it.

Razor blade holders and nib files for cutting runs are available from Eastwoodco. com. They hold the blade at the right angle and prevent it from catching and cutting thru the paint.

Can you have a single stage metallic color? If so, I wouldn't sand it. When you get into the paint it exposes the metalic flakes and causes the area to discolor.
I have lots of experience with runs! I paint everyday. Forget cutting the runs out of single stage metallics. You will have to block and repaint, carful or the runs will still be there under the new paint. Non metallics, you can use 3m tape and tape the area next to the run on both sides and the bottom in order to keep from going through the area around the run, before you get the run level. You can replace the tape as needed. I have never used a stone. I use a hard sanding block, 1500 2000 grit. I have about a 50% sucsess rate. The other 50% either go out the door or get repainted. Call it a flow indicator, or "I don't charge for extra paint".
LPB I agree after many years of painting ... runs are tough ... but most of all the run needs to dry completely or it will show thru. I use the same method on non metalic paint. On metalic I block it out and depending on the location blend it in and clear over it. Liek I said it depends on the location.

But with my patience the razor sounds like a god idea as long as you have the patience to wait for it to dry...runs take time to dry.

R
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