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Did a little test on a road course oil pan like the one I installed. When I filled the pickup area to the top with old oil it took about 10 minutes for the oil to escape past the trap doors and exit the pan though the oil drain plug.

In addition the same area I tested continued to hold about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart after it finished draining

For oil changes I recommend the motor be warm and jack up the car as much as possible to aid the oil draining towards the oil plug. Most important is to let the oil drain as long as possible (more than 10 minutes) with the trap door style pans.

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When I was a young lad, my Dad taught me how to change oil. He also taught me to jack the car up so the oil drains more efficiently. He then told me to let it drain overnight. The really bad stuff is in the last bit of oil. He had a '62 Ford Falcon with over 180K and no engine rebuild. I have been doing this to all of my cars. I had an '89 Mazda 323. Bought it new and sold it with 187K. The only engine work I had done was to have a valve cover gasket replaced.


John
Its best to drain the oil hot, most of the garbage is then suspended in the oil & drains out with the oil, any sludge in the motor will be more likely to flow out when its hot as well.

I hate draining hot oil, seems I always burn myself with the oil or on the exhaust system, but it is what's best.

So my advice is run the motor until it reaches operating temp, jack the car up, pull the drain plug, then go sip a buttery nipple while the oil drains. Pre-fill your new filter with oil. By then the old oil is good and drained, and you can finish the job. You may need a second buttery nipple before the job is over, and a third one to celebrate when it is.

your friend on the DTBB, George
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