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I don't race my car or drive it hard if ever, but I do want to use it in parades and slow cruises. Therefore the car will be in stop and go slow motion. I want to be able to do this without constantly watching my temp gauge. I saw an ad for a 5 row 2 pass laydown aluminum radiator with attached sucker fans for about $1,000 with 90 degree in/outlets built in.

It looks like its ready to go OR should I try to go the fluidyne radiator with flex-a-lite fans? From what I've read it takes some hardware store hunting to complete the fluidyne installation. Any advice is appreciated.

Please assume that the rest of the cooling system is functioning properly.
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For your stated application, you want a radiator with a radiator shrowd to control air flow when the fans are operating and to mount the fans about an inch off the radiator core. You also want 2 very high volume fans, and finally a lot of water circulation at low rpm. I believe it is proper to mention, the proper high flow thermostat should be verified to be in use. The wrong t-stat leads to overheating.

The way to get the low rpm water flow up is with an Edelbrock or Flow Kooler water pump.

Radiator core design can also aide in improving coolant flow. For a given radiator thickness, say 3 1/2 inches, it would be better to have a core with 2 rows of 1 1/2 inch wide tubes, than to have a core with 5 rows of 1/2 inch wide tubes.

I believe the $1000 radiator you are referring to is sold by Collector's Choice. I happen to know their radiator is manufactured by Ron Davis Radiators. It looks like a good set up, but I'm not sure of the core configuration.

Hope the pointers help.

Your friend on the DTBB, George
The Ron Davis Radiator is very well built. Just installed one this week. It has a shroud with 2 spal fans spaced an inch off with a divider between the fans so that both fans always pull through the core and not each other. Going on a test drive today and then a 600 mile event tomarrow! Hope we got it all buttoned up.
Radiator worked great. Pulled less amps then my previous dual sucker fans on a stock radiator in the laydown position. Stayed in the 190's and didn't run the fans much. I had a pair of 180 & 190 temp switches to control the fans. Had plenty of test time over 404 miles (not 600 like I thought) at fairly decent sustained speeds. Although my test drive the day before was a bit exciting when I discovered we needed to bleed the brakes a bit more! Extras needed to complete the install were upper and lower petcocks (different sizes), 2 pieces of flat stock (al or stainless) to attach the radiator to the car, longer straight radiator hose, misc wiring and connectors. Many thanks to Bill Whitmore, Gil Mares, and Les Grey for the last minute help to get me back on the road for our annual "Midnight At The Oasis" Yuma run.
quote:
The wrong t-stat leads to overheating.

The way to get the low rpm water flow up is with an Edelbrock or Flow Kooler water pump.


George, I followed your lead with the Edelbrock WP, but reading your post above leaves me wondering if I need to change my stock t-stat after I install it. If so, what rating should I change it to?

Thanks for your expertise,
Mark (in Ottawa, where it's a balmy -15) Big Grin
Hi Mark,

change the t-stat if it's the wrong one (windsor style), otherwise leave it alone. The setting of the t-stat is not that critical. Anywhere between 180 and 205 degrees F is OK. A lower t-stat rating will not prevent overheatng, it just tries to regulate the temp of the coolant at a different temp. Overheating is the result of insufficient btu removal, or excessive btu input, neither of which is affected by the t-stat setting.

My advice would be to select the t-stat setting based upon the settings of the temp switches controlling your fans.

keep the fires lit & stay warm my friend
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