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I haven't seen anything posted about this, so here is a way to avoid paying $80 for a socket that you will probably only use a few times in your life, if that (I used this tool on my '72).

You need the following:
- An old socket, I used a 1.25-inch (not sure if other Panteras have different axle nut sizes; if so then use a socket that is about the same diameter as the axle nut)
- 4 pieces of 3/16 inch (thickness) x 1 inch (length) steel keyway (available at Lowe's in the hardware section). 3/16 is the size of the axle not grooves on a '72 (I used a 3/16 drill bit to determine this; again you can use the same technique on different model years).
- Ability to weld

Basically you weld the 4 pieces of key onto the outside of the socket, and you now have your tool to remove the axle nut. To make sure the alignment is correct, have the axle assembly on a bench, axle nut facing up. Lay the socket on top of the axle nut. The socket diameter should be the same as, or slightly smaller than the axle nut diameter. Lay a piece of steel key into each axle nut socket groove (for all 4 grooves). Tack-weld the pieces of key to the socket, then of course weld the pieces of key solidly to the outside of the socket.

Credit goes to my brother, who used this trick to quickly work on his dirt race car axles w/o paying some obscene amount for a manufactured socket.

If anyone is interested I can post some pics.

Cory
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I went ahead and made one of these. I followed Cory's instructions and used a 1.25" impact socket along with 3/16" key stock. The key stock was slightly wider than the slots on my axle nuts so I ground it to fit. I then used wire to hold the key stock in place to both the socket and the nut, and then tack welded it with TIG, and finished the welds. The tool fits like a glove on my axle nuts. Within a couple of days I plan to put it to the test by applying torque to the nuts. I will report back with the outcome.

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  • P1250002
The tool seems to hold torque without a problem. Here you see it in the press. Along with the setup in this picture, I am using a floor jack handle as an extension to the breaker bar. The tool is holding steady and it looks like my ½” breaker bar will fail before the tool breaks.

I am wondering if sufficient torque has been applied to the axle nut at this point. The breaker bar along with the extension have an accumulated length of 48 inches. What do you guys think? Does this suffice?

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Images (1)
  • ToolPress
eBay – suspension bushings (16), ball joints (6), tie rod ends (2) - $500 from the Masserati guy
Larry Stock – SS brake lines and fittings (4), rear caliper rebuild kit (2), axle nuts (2), bearing sets (2) - $500
Summit Racing - QA1 shock (HAL-DR5855P) - $160, 550 lb spring(HAL-12-550) - $40
eBay – rear brakes pads that needed minor mods - $20
Autozone – U-joint for Spicer (2-0054DL) - $12
Napa – rotor resurfaced - $15
Harbor Freight – 12 ton hydraulic press - $120, red powder paint - $6
www.roseyspowdercoating.com - chrome powder paint - $20

It looks like my parts cost for the rear suspension rebuild is about $1,350 including the press. But hey, there was no charge for the adventure, twists, and turns.
Last edited by stevebuchanan
quote:
Originally posted by SteveBuchanan:
The tool seems to hold torque without a problem. Here you see it in the press. Along with the setup in this picture, I am using a floor jack handle as an extension to the breaker bar. The tool is holding steady and it looks like my ½” breaker bar will fail before the tool breaks.

I am wondering if sufficient torque has been applied to the axle nut at this point. The breaker bar along with the extension have an accumulated length of 48 inches. What do you guys think? Does this suffice?


The weak spot(s) on the tool shown are the welds holding the key-stock to the pipe. High-carbon steel (like key stock) doesn't weld well. Our POCA Chapter made one up in which the keys were brazed and that lasted for years before a key finally broke. If you clearance the pipe for a std axle nut and braze the keys inside it, you have a home-made socket that doesn't need a press to hold it in position.
Here is a pic of the tool I made attached to a 3/4-in drive ratchet.

The rear wheel bearings in my 12k-mile car were Fafnir 208PP and 308PP; w/ this mileage I assume these are the OEM bearings used in my '72. I know a Pantera dealer will charge much more; I see nothing unique about these bearings, Fafnir makes bearings for countless applications. I found these on eBay for $5 to $8 apiece.
Its not secret, but a few things cut down damage in pressing it apart. First, the assembly weighs 65 lbs and has lots of protrusions to snag the unwary human. Get some help if balancing the assembly in your press is a problem. Second, knock all the wheel studs loose first; they won't come all the way out, but when you press against the rotor you're not only trying to push the axle through the press-fit bearings, you're also trying to press all 5 studs out at the same time. And be careful in knocking them back- hit straight with a brass hammer or with a chunk of aluminum on a stud so you don't mash the threads. Wheel studs are hardened & do not bend, and cost $16 each to replace if you crack one.
Third- ideally you will use a big circular stand-off fixture that contacts the rotor at the rounded-off area inside the point where the pads touch, not out on the brake pad area. If you use two simple parallels across the pad-wear area and the axle happens to be very tight- or you didn't knock the studs back first, its possible to break a rotor in 2 or 3 pieces with a 12-ton press! I made my fixture from a piece of 6" dia cast iron sewer pipe, and vendors use similar fixtures of 4" thick Bakelite plastic, or even wood. 12 ton presses work fine. If your assembly seems to need more, there's something binding up. STOP and check everything before adding more pressure!
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