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I'm considering rebuilding the rear upright pivots on my car. I have seen different offerings form the vendors and am looking for input. Most vendors seem to offer the setup that puts zerk fittings on the bottom of the uprights but I have seen where zerk fittings were put on the end of the pivot shafts. If you have experience with either setup or both I'm interested in your experience.

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I just finished my uprights with the zerks on the bottom. My thought is that the grease needs to be between the bushings(16) and the main shaft(19). The pivot shaft(22) purpose is to hold everything together and not really be part of the rotating parts. Drilling holes in it so grease can lubricate that shaft may weaken it and not really provide the correct lubrication to the parts that need it. I do not have any miles on my new rebuild at this point.


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Zert in the casting is the easiest way. Make sure you bushings are tight. If one is loose the grease will hydraulic through the loose side and may not pass through the other side. I always install new bushing and add 3 small file slices in them so the grease will pass though to the washers no problem. You can also put the zests on top (picture) using 90 degree fitting and grease them under the half shafts.


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I think there is another part of making sure the upright pivots work as intended.

Referencing JFB's nice illustration:

Dry fit parts 12,13,17,19,17,13,12 in the lower swing arm 25 and slide pivot shaft 22 through. There should be virtually no side play between the parts.

Tighten the pivot shaft nuts. Well before full tightness is reached, all the parts on the shaft should be squeezed tightly in place, unable to rotate on the pivot shaft.

This ensures that upright mounted bushings 15 and 16 will bear against stationary washers 13 and sleeve 19.

If 13 and 19 float on the pivot shaft, chances are that they will rotate on the pivot shaft.

Over tightening the pivot shaft nuts to lock the related parts in place will obviously distort the swingarm.

For the backyard mechanic (me) the fix was to find replacements for part 17 that were bit thicker. I got machine bushings from the pick-a-nut aisle. I flat filed a pair of them to a nice tight dry fit. After the clearance was set, I greased everything up and put it together.

Now I'm pretty sure I've done all I can to be sure the moving parts move and the stationary ones don't.

My grease fittings are in the bottom center, like Rocky.
Hi Steve,
My $0.02...
Zerk fittings are easily done. I don't believe there is value in purchasing a "kit". I don't believe the rotational orientation makes any difference. I'd pick a location that will make greasing them as easy as possible for your particular set up (wheels ..etc). I'm with Kirk, I file a couple "very" small grooves equally spaced around the bushing to permit the grease to easily migrate the full length of the bushing. The suspension movement will then distribute the grease around the bushing.

I would choose the zirk in the upright over drilling the shaft simply due to the strength loss to the shaft of making it hollow, with holes then also drilled out radially to distribute the grease. I feel this makes it way too weak. Plus...the upright modification is much easier to actually do.

Either way you slice it...I'd do it. If these seize up and's ugly. Eeker

Nice illustration JFB..! Wink

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