Rebuild of #7029

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Although not a rotisserie resto, it will be a complete rebuild, with some subtle body mods. I will be looking for some advice on suspension mods(a-arms,sway bars, chassis stiffeners, etc.)So please don't be shy with your recommendations. My goal is to build a narrow body with race spec suspension. Any Pantera road racers out there please contact me with what you think I should do to the suspension and chassis. Thanks in advance for any info!

Motor is nothing fancy. Factory nodular iron cast crank( ford never made steel cranks for 351c), very nice aftermarket H-Beam Eagle con rods. Heads are 4V closed chamber small ports, not 4V boss heads. These are the preferred "street hot rod" heads for 351c street racers, but again nothing special. The oil pan is cool with hi- capacity and baffling with integral windage trays in pan, but that's about it. This motor was a very lumpy, great running and sounding beast. Surprised by its mediocre components.

Are you going to keep the red heads and ZF?

You know what they say:

"Better dead than red in the head!"

or "heads"

(or at least we said that in 3rd grade!)

Modok, be SURE to cut the center crossmember out of the chassis, and either fabricate a removeable one or modify the OEM piece. The e-brake bracket welded to the rail (fwd of the crank pulley) must also be cut loose and made removeable, as a 351-C pan drops down a few inches, then moves fwd a bit for ultimate removal downward. The welded crossmember & bracket on '71-74 cars keeps one from pulling the oil pan for any reason. Panteras built after Ford pulled out of the project already have this upgrade as-stock.

The mod can be done with the engine in the car but it's far more work and you get to inhale lots of falling debris doing it that way. I also recommend pulling the fuel tank and inspecting the body/chassis area behind the tank for corrosion; the area is prone to collect dirt & water, and is normally near-inaccessible. Clean & epoxy-paint as req'd.

BTW, your real name is not Glen, is it? I've seen that handle on another forum.
Cheers- J DeRyke

No, I am not Glen.
Thanks for the recommendations, I think I will do the crossmember when I do the suspension mods.
BTW, I will ask on another thread, but does anyone have experience with the PI or Hall Billit suspension arms? Looking for something stronger with more adjustability for a severely lowered car.

Don't remember who the maker was, but a couple of years ago, a lower rear billet aluminum a-arm broke in two while a Pantera owner was out driving. Look closely at any aluminum arms offered: if they have cut-aways in their construction ANYWHERE, for any reason, I'd avoid them. Especially in the heavily loaded rear suspension.

There are aluminum covers available for stock steel arms- which are lighter and stronger than alloy arms and look as 'blingy', or stock steel arms that are plated. The stock alloy arms on other brands of sporty cars are forged aluminum which is far stronger and tougher than machined or welded 'billet' aluminum.

So what do the few vintage racing Panteras use? Modified stock steel a-arms? What modifications? I am having a hard time figuring out which direction to go on the suspension. Bling is nice, but I am looking for handling performance and real world durability, with a car lowered beyond what is recommended. Is there anyone besides PI and Hall that make components? Is there anyone that has tracked a street Pantera that has advice? So many questions, thanks in advance for any ideas or info.

Maybe Text Bob Benson (PCNC) he Tracks his Street Car!

quote:

Originally posted by modok:
So what do the few vintage racing Panteras use? Modified stock steel a-arms? What modifications? I am having a hard time figuring out which direction to go on the suspension. Bling is nice, but I am looking for handling performance and real world durability, with a car lowered beyond what is recommended. Is there anyone besides PI and Hall that make components? Is there anyone that has tracked a street Pantera that has advice? So many questions, thanks in advance for any ideas or info.

Dennis Quella sells rear lower arms which are nearly identical ( he uses slightly thicker DOM tubing to produce them) . Give him a call.

Ron