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Rebuilt the master clutch cylinder. Went pretty smooth. I also disconnected the pedal and found out I didn't have to.

Got plenty of cluch now until it leaks, drains from the inside firewall around the bolts and flange which takes about 2 days and is making a mess.

The cirle clip in locked in place holding the plunger washer keeping the plunger inside.

Rubber O rings are new, inside cylinder feels smooth. The rubber boot was broke, haven't replaced it.

Any idea's ?

I'm thinking rear O ring is not sealing inside the cylinder, time for a new cylinder.

Thanks guys.
Coz
9178

[This message has been edited by Cozman (edited 11-24-2003).]
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Leaking is always caused by water corroding the cast iron bores. When you hone out the pits that result, the amount of iron removed lessens the compression of the rubber seal. In some cases, it will still seal and in other cases, it leaks instantly. This's why I don't recommend trying to fix a stock hydraulic clutch,either master or slave, 'cause the sussess rate is unpredictable.
Got the new one today and replaced it.
Pretty straight forward process. Remove the pen holding the linkage for the clutch peddle, remove the old cylinder, remove the rod clevis off the old plunger and put it on the new one at the same distance.
Cut the old flare off, reflare the the end and put it all back together.
Adjusted the clutch for free play and throw and it's never shifted better.
The only problem I had was the fluid tubing was about an inch short no matter what I did. So I routed it through the battery opening for the time being. It just made it.
Next time the car is up in the air, I am going to replace the whole line with braded line and take it back through the hole that it and the brake line runs through.
Took about 2 hours with the clutch adjustment.
Want to thank Jerry at PI, Mike Daily for a great and informative website, and Jack, all of which got me through another learning experience with success.....
Thanks guys.
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