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I think the original rivet job looks good only because the factory did it this way.
To blend the flares I get visions of the 70s and 80s of the blended hoodscoopes that would start cracking after a year or so!
Metal would be the best but at high expense or exceptional skill. Hall Pantera has done some real nice all steel flared cars that look great in fact some day I'm going to buy that Pink Pantera on the P.I.M. cars for sale page and paint it black with new interior, rims and tires. Think the price will be lower in about 5 years when I'm ready?
To blend the flares I get visions of the 70s and 80s of the blended hoodscoopes that would start cracking after a year or so!
Metal would be the best but at high expense or exceptional skill. Hall Pantera has done some real nice all steel flared cars that look great in fact some day I'm going to buy that Pink Pantera on the P.I.M. cars for sale page and paint it black with new interior, rims and tires. Think the price will be lower in about 5 years when I'm ready?
I would rivet and take your pick of the new age adhesives that are being used today. These adhesives were covered in another thread as holding motorcycle swing arms!
Then I'd use the money saved over welding and spend it on a real "go-fast" goodie. Weight savings, by not using metal, would be a bonus too.
Then I'd use the money saved over welding and spend it on a real "go-fast" goodie. Weight savings, by not using metal, would be a bonus too.
I tend to like the rivet look as well. I was looking at a Cobra replica at the BJ last year and the intake scoop on the hood was held on with rivets. It gives the car an aggressive look. I like the idea of weight saving and using the extra money on some go fast goodies as well. Hmmmm... I can see my wallet opening already. 
I like metal flares welded on and blended ... there will be no cracking there ??? I guess its personal preference.
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
I like metal flares welded on and blended ... there will be no cracking there ??? I guess its personal preference.
I also prefer the metal (done right). Of course I have a bias having a metal fender car, but that is because I wouldn't have bought a fiber fender car anyway, because my preference was metal anyway. I know you probably don't ever plan on selling, but from what I have heard over the years, a metal fender car that is done well has more value and has more build appreciation from most Pantera owners. However, fiber probably does have some weight savings, not sure how much though.
IF I were going to do a group 4 fender job, AND I were planning to put the car on a track from time to time, I would want plastic or fiberglass fenders, because they are somewhat resilient and may bend and resist permanent damage if they come in contact with another car, a guard rail, a stack of tires, etc., and if they were damaged, they could be easily replaced.
On the other hand, IF I were going to do a group 4 fender job, and had no plans to ever put the car on a track, then I would prefer the steel fenders because they look better.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
On the other hand, IF I were going to do a group 4 fender job, and had no plans to ever put the car on a track, then I would prefer the steel fenders because they look better.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
quote:IF I were going to do a group 4 fender job, AND I were planning to put the car on a track from time to time, I would want plastic or fiberglass fenders, because they are somewhat resilient and may bend and resist permanent damage if they come in contact with another car, a guard rail, a stack of tires, etc., and if they were damaged, they could be easily replaced.
Reason why the factory used riveted fiberglass flares on their factory GT-4 race cars. Weight savings over using metal probably impacted their decision to use fiberglass as they looked for ways to lessen (not increase) the weight of the car.
Also, all factory GT-5 cars came with riveted fiberglass fender flares. They were also bonded to the body.
I would glue them with a epoxy based structural adhesive but I wouldn’t blend the step.
You get the Factory look without any cracking problems. (Also the area around the rivets tends to distort and crack)
The use of glue with a lower heat resistance (~195°F) makes it possible to remove a damaged flare with the help of a power dryer and maybe, with some care, save the paint job on the body.
You get the Factory look without any cracking problems. (Also the area around the rivets tends to distort and crack)
The use of glue with a lower heat resistance (~195°F) makes it possible to remove a damaged flare with the help of a power dryer and maybe, with some care, save the paint job on the body.
Thanks guys! I love this BB for the great advice that is always plentful here! The car is going to see some track days here and there. The body is now stripped to metal. The flares that are on the car now are of the fiberglass variety. They look like they have actually come into contact with another car. They are not seriously damaged but do have a few cracks. I just bought a new set as I thought I might as well replace them instead of fixing them.