roll bar mount

Don't know if this will help. I tied into the deck lid hinge.



This is the rest of it:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/rollbar/roll.htm

Mine is in the interior shop right now. Should get it out at the beginning of March.

My plan for the rear window is to make a steel plate the same shape as the window with the cut outs for the roll bar. The steel plate will have the window opening.

The plate will go into the rubber and the window will bolt to the plate. the plate will have nuts welded on the back. This will allow easy window removal.

This does actually help. the problem is it is giving me more ideas, and the ideas get ideas and on and on and on? LOL!

I actually think that the plate that the hinges bolt to continue into the cabin? Maybe not? Hum? Too much thought? Migraine now.

Thanks.

Doug,

Is this just the roll bar (hoop) or one of the Hall bolt in cages?

Julian

That was the same delima I was dealing with when I did it. I just had to pick a direction and bite the bullet.

BTW, I had the interior shop wok around the roll bar but I went and removed it for interior instillation. To start I won't have the front roll bar section in the car. I figure being a new car and having tuning and such to to do, it will be a while before I will need it.

The guy doing the interior still needed to work around it. For instance, on the front side bars I moved the door handle:

quote:

Originally posted by Joules:
Doug,

Is this just the roll bar (hoop) or one of the Hall bolt in cages?

Julian

Just the hoop. I had one in there before but had clearance issues.

It occurred to me that I possibly could cut and tuck it in tighter?

I kept JUST catching my hip on it sliding in. I got pissed and sold it. I want to revisit the issue.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
That was the same delima I was dealing with when I did it. I just had to pick a direction and bite the bullet.

BTW, I had the interior shop wok around the roll bar but I went and removed it for interior instillation. To start I won't have the front roll bar section in the car. I figure being a new car and having tuning and such to to do, it will be a while before I will need it.

The guy doing the interior still needed to work around it. For instance, on the front side bars I moved the door handle:

I'm thinking WHY does the front leg NEED to project forward into the cabin?
Why can't there be another bar under the windshield header panel that goes no further?
It could be bolted into the pillar post with a welded on tab no?

The problem is the cabin is so exact (a kind way of not insulting Tjarda and saying it's "tight") and even just 1-1/2" diameter tubes take up too much space.

Even in the engine compartment, why can't the dog legs to the tubs just bolt up to plates at the hinge mount, OR, OR, OR, ooo, ooo, I know, attach to a cross member that is bolted to the hinges? Huh, huh, huh?

See. This is what I mean about where does it stop?

I just want to re-visit the simple hoop again behind the seats. Maybe add tabs to the seat belt mount bolts and attach it to the roof assembly as simply as possible?

I like what Comp2 did with the extra horizontal bar that will now also be for the shoulder harness. That can have tabs to bolt to the original harness mount.

It's like Yogi said, "this is just like Deja vu all over again?" I can clearly see he is the smartest man I ever heard of?

I sold my tubing bender too swearing I was done with that? OH, make it all stop?

Just a thought, in the event of a roll over or barrel rolling, wouldn't a roll bar NOT attached to the roof, NOT be influenced/affected by the dramatic shifting/contorting of the roof & the attached body?

Are there crash studies that support the added benefits of the roll bar being attached to the roof?!

Not by Ford. Maybe by Mad Dog but he was probably unconscious at the time?

Maybe BossWrench knows. He is closer to this stuff than me.

I would think that you want the cage as it exists to also act as a chassis stiffener as per the forward dog legs.

So the bar is there not just to keep the roof off of you but to triangulate the chassis, I would think?

You want the cage to hold the sheet metal off of you as well?

You want the cage to relocate the "crush zones" to a place not in the cabin.

I attached to the body more for chassis stiffness then anything. By attaching to the roof, then coming back in a box to the ladder bar and such, it addresses the well known issue with the back of the car where it acts like a card board box with no top or bottom.





And BTW Doug, following through on the "what if" has always been the funnest part. If you can manage a grinder and welder, you can control the world (on your car anyway!).

Yikes Comp2! Webers, aluminum heads, roll bars attached to the roof?

Are we identical twins separated at birth? This is a very scary thought.

Kind of like Ghost Busters where you want to keep the key master and the gate keeper separated?

No 180 headers for you though? You must have missed that mind meld cession?

OMG! Re-examining that picture (nice) I just realized that you have big yellow hairy balls too? Small world?

LOL don't you remember my exhaust threads? I want it all which means possibly making a new fancy trunk...which also means no 180's. Since you can only get so big a pipe through the suspension I went over it. What helps TQ in a street car? Long primaries!

How's that for different?





Notice the burn't fuel on the left side:

And a butterfly in the exhaust to control back pressure:

You asked for the roof structure inside the cabin

Apparently the infection hasn't completely affected me like it has you Comp2, YET but there are a bunch of very concerning similar symtoms?

quote:

Originally posted by Push1267:
You asked for the roof structure inside the cabin

I did. Now I need to orient myself to that picture...or that picture to myself.

Not a problem. I'll figure it out which way is up. Thanks Push.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
LOL don't you remember my exhaust threads? I want it all which means possibly making a new fancy trunk...which also means no 180's. Since you can only get so big a pipe through the suspension I went over it. What helps TQ in a street car? Long primaries!

How's that for different?





Notice the burn't fuel on the left side:

Starting this car in the dark with the Webers and the free flowing exhaust puts on a light show.

One mechanic wouldn't go near the car because he saw the "flames" comeing out of the exhausts, just like yours.

Good thing he didn't see it in the dark with the flames coming out of the carbs?

I think the color of the car you picked is appropriate. It makes it look like it is glowing with radiation?

Thanks Doug,

I can't wait to see the car when the interior shop gets done with it. It will be on the road soon!!!!!!!

Comp2,
I noticed something interesting when I zoomed in on your left "muffler" exhaust!

This is the current version of the Hall Pantera bar installed in McMann's car.
It has an additional tab that mounts to the shoulder harness nut.

I'm going to add an additional tab to tie it to the roof structure over the door.

I'm thinking also that if I run a chord from just above the pontoons to just over the engine access panel it will keep the side rail from collapsing in a side impact and make the external skin take the stress?

It's close enough and could be tweaked a little. Why reinvent the wheel?

It just needs the tabs to bolt over the doors.

I like Randy Newman's thought, "living in America is really neat, you don't have to run through the jungle and scrape up your feet".