Shouldered Nuts Required??

quote:

These require shouldered nuts, don't they

Yup.

quote:

The vendor sent me regular tapered nuts

Then the vendor, or whoever works for them and put in those tapered nuts, is an idiot.

And they should provide the correct nuts, not you.

Larry

This is for a set of four...

I asked Wilkinson and he said they were fine...
Will

quote:

I asked Wilkinson and he said they were fine...

I still stand by my initial post -

quote:

Then the vendor is an idiot.

Larry

and this....

But hey Will, if Steve said they were okay, you just go right ahead and use them.

And then have your lawyer contact his lawyer.

Good luck.

Seriously,

DO NOT USE THOSE LUG NUTS ON THOSE WHEELS!!!

Still not sure?

Do your own search for more - "lug nut types"

Will,

You need to take more of a close up of the area on the rim in question. I think I might be able to see a tapered spot on the rim adjacent to the stud -- but it is not exactly clear. Yes, I see the large flat spot perpendicular to the stud on the rim, but if you look closely, it is not a squared off situation like the shouldered nut situation that Larry has displayed.

I say let's see a closer, better photo of the stud/ rim area.

Mark

quote:

better photo of the stud/ rim area.

Hmmmm, Mark may be on to something....?????

But, Will's looks more like a chamfer than a taper. It is very narrow, and the angle does not seem correct.

There is definately a taper there. I'll check tonight.
Will

Whether the nut is tapered or not, I think you need a heavy duty washer secured by the shoulder of the nut to fill the recessed space allocated for it on your wheels. Using the nut alone, the taper in it will eventually wear away the edge of the holes in the wheel.

You should NOT use any washers if the nut and wheel are both tapered. As long as the taper angles match, you will be fine.

Mark

quote:

You should NOT use any washers if the nut and wheel are both tapered

Correct.

BUT, I still do NOT think that is a proper taper.

The recess around the chamfer/taper really does look like a proper recess for a washer. Washers are only used for the mag seat type of lug nut.

Can you give us a photo of your supplied lug nut type?

Larry

If you bought the wheels from Steve Wilkinson and he furnished the nuts and says they are correct I would use them as he recommends.

I agree Larry. I like the second one you pictured.
My wheels have the bevel that is the same angle as the lug, but I would like to see a sleeve or shoulder on the nut.
Will

How do I post more than 1 pic in a reply?
Will

I don't have a photo of it, but I had wheels with the same boltholes in question. Thay had a small taper first ONLY to make it easier to get the bolt onto the tread, and as you got it further in, it centered the wheel in the same manner as a Acorn seat does. So, mag seat for you, as LF - TP 2511 say!

Your wheels look like they require a shank nut, NOT a taper nut. Agree with LF. Also, be advised that there are two tapers, 60 and 90 degree. I got Bassett race wheels that require 90 degree taper nuts. 60 degree will not stay tightened on a 90 degree wheel.

And what ever you do, do not put washers behind them.

Summit Racing has the correct shank nuts in Pantera thread in various lengths.

What thread pitch should I be searching for?
Will

quote:

What thread pitch should I be searching for?

12mm x 1.5

Seeing your close up wheel photos, the width of the taper is more than I initially thought. But it still seems a bit narrow.

And you have now said the angle of the two pieces seem to be a match.

But most of the time, a taper lug nut hole is a smaller diameter, closer to the o.d. of the wheel stud. The extra space on your wheels (around the wheel studs) seems to want to be filled with either the shank of a mag style nut or the extended thread style of a conical lug.

So I am now more confused than dead sure what is correct.

I'd call Steve again, and armed with all this info, ply him with some questions.

Why the washer-sized recess if no washer? Why so thin a wheel taper area? What about a conical nut with the extended thread feature? Who makes the wheels? Who supplied the lug nuts for these wheels - the maker or Steve?

There, that's another 2¢ worth. Who else has ideas on this?

Larry

In the original photo's there doesn't look to be that much clearance betwen the stud and hole.

What's the diameter of the hole in the wheel and the stud?

Are these wheels hub centric or stud centric?

Julian

If you look at similar alu. wheels made by centerline, etc. they all use shank nuts. Gary Hall did the same.

The design makes no sense to have a relief for the shank washer and then stick a plain old angled lug nut on that wheel.

I'm going with "conical seat, extended thread".
My stud hole is .629"
Joules, the wheels are stud-centric.
Larry is going to post a pic of the ones I'm going with.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Will

quote:

Larry is going to post a pic of the ones I'm going with.

Note, Will said his hole is .629 i.d. and these conical seat, extended thread nuts have an o.d. of .62.

While these nuts will apparently match the wheel's taper and their shank design will fit in the hole, there is still the issue of why is there a recess that looks correct for a mag type nut's washer?

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
...there is still the issue of why is there a recess that looks correct for a mag type nut's washer?

I think that recess is a design detail to minimize the inevitable surface marking that will occur when a (long) socket is used to remove the lug nuts.

Mark

I contacted the maunufacturer and they said the 60 deg acorn nuts are fine.
Will