Steering rack questoion

I don't think it is borrowed from another car, but unique to the Pantera if memory serves.

They are rebuildable (is it just the bushing or more serious?) and the vendors carry rebuilt ones on an exchange basis. Roland Jaeckel in Germany had some reproduction ones fabricated a while back, not sure if he still has any.

Julian

I believe Roland's steering racks were reproductions of the later (1980's) TRW Italia racks, rather than the original (1970's) Cam Gears racks.

Don't know if it helps, but down under, I have seen Ford Cortina ( english version ) steering racks in RHD panteras. I don't know if there is a LHD Cortina,nor do I know if it would fit, or could be made to fit. Like I said it may / may not help

Greetings to all. After hearing a hellatious clunk over most bumps, and removing both rubber boots, I've discovered my right tie rod has WAY too much radial movement and is the cause of the clunking. I would like to get the forums' thoughts before I call parts suppliers for details and cost. Can anyone supply a bit more info such as:

- Are replacment bushings available -or- just rebuilt assemblies on an exchange basis?
- If bushings are available, I imagine it calls for removing the rack, slipping or pressing out the old and inserting the new bushings?
- Approximate cost of a pair of new bushings?
- Approximate cost of a rebuilt rack assembly with exchange?
- Any recommendations for a particular source for either the bushings or the rebuilt assembly?

Thank you very much in advance,

Pete

quote:

Can anyone supply a bit more info such as:

Read this first.

http://panteraplace.com/page203.htm

If you still have questions, read it again.

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by superlight:
Greetings to all. After hearing a hellatious clunk over most bumps, and removing both rubber boots, I've discovered my right tie rod has WAY too much radial movement and is the cause of the clunking. I would like to get the forums' thoughts before I call parts suppliers for details and cost. Can anyone supply a bit more info such as:

- Are replacment bushings available -or- just rebuilt assemblies on an exchange basis?
- If bushings are available, I imagine it calls for removing the rack, slipping or pressing out the old and inserting the new bushings?
- Approximate cost of a pair of new bushings?
- Approximate cost of a rebuilt rack assembly with exchange?
- Any recommendations for a particular source for either the bushings or the rebuilt assembly?

Thank you very much in advance,

Pete

Hi Pete,

I am doing this e-mail from memory there are plenty of sites on this subject it is common. Any other input to correct my CRS mind would be helpful.

The nylon bushing in your rack on the passenger side is worn you need to fix it;

You have two options...

One: LF-TP 2511 post is the best go to the Panteraplace.com website (it is a wealth of information) and pull the rack and rebuild it. the parts can be found at most venders. I use Pantera East do to I like the people there and I am from Florida where they are located.

Two: Get the new bushing in hand. have a small set screw and tap available
Jack the car up and block it well.
Pull the tire and the tie rod off (take good aim with a BFH)
Mark and Count the turns as you remove the tierod end.
Pull the rack boot off...
This is important feel the play in the rod on the steering rack move the rod around. Feel the spring ball on the rod and put it back the same tension. This is not the slop in the bushing it is the locking ring to ball end. The lock clip (nut) holds the ball end in.
Inside there is a bend over lock clip (lock ring Be careful) make sure you unpeen this carefully all the way around in every area or else the threads might get damaged or it will not come off. DO NOT FORCE THE RING UNPEEN IT BETTER IF IT BINDS. I have used small punches and small screwdrivers for this task, it is the hardest part of the job take your time. This "nut" that holds the inner rod end on. Watch out for the spring on the end of the ball.

Then you have access to where the bushing goes.

Put some grease (0 weight or motor cam breakin lube) in the area the best you can... pack it in there. Use the thinest grease you can... like thick oil. Do it like you are packing a wheel bearing.

The new bushings are brass... bevel (grind) a small starter angle into the housing about 1/8 inch on about 45 degree angle(chamfer) and put the new bushing right in... pushing the old one in farther.
Use a deep wall socket (and extention) to tap the new bushing in place. There is space for both bushings in the housing and it will not impead the steering what so ever.
Next drill a small hole thru the steering rack and into the bushing tap the hole and install a set screw with some locktight on it (as a pin to insure it stays put)
Reassemble the parts in reverse order when you tighten the locking nut the action of the ball and spring should be tight but free movement.

Get it all back together and then get the alignment done... I have done both of these (one and two) before Enjoy your time with the cat. I do...

Joe #6656

i disassembled my steering rack and replaced the bushing, that worked fine. But i still ned huge force to turn the input shaft as soon as i put everything together. It seems that the tension from the adjuster is too high. It seems that one of the previous owners already disassemled it and put it together the wrong way.

Anybody got pictures how the bearings, washers etc. should be put together? The pictures on panteraplace.com and provamo.com unfortunately don't show all details.

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers,
Andy

Photos are in the "Pantera Service Highlights" manual, still the ONLY place where Ford/DeTomaso talks about rebuilding the steering rack (available from PIM, POCA and a few POCA Chapter Stores). All other pub's say to 'take the rack to an authorized service shop'. This manual is also the only one that shows how to rebuild the rear wheel bearings, the rear caliper and how to pull a dash (early type only).
It's possible during inexpert rack rebuild to shuffle the pinion shims so the rack-gear and pinion are no longer aligned. Its also possible to NOT drill the necessary detent-hole in the new bushing for the tiny self-tapping screw. This screw is the ONLY thing that retains the bushing in the rack case, beyond a very light press fit. If the bushing begins to slip back & forth in the rack housing, it may cause heavy steering or even lock up the steering in certain turns. Finally, axle grease that some advocate is specifically rejected for this steering rack; use ONLY 80W90 diff-lube! Obviously, old perforated rubber rack-boots will leak....