I have read some threads on removing tachometer, but was wondering if it could be removed without taking the brackets off. I loosened the two thumb screws and tried spinning the brackets inward to clear the dash. I am trying to avoid taking both off as i feel that putting the bracket on the speedometer side is going to be more challenging. If taking off just one of the brackets would allow this, that would be of help.
Thanks in advance
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The brackets on the tachometer and Speedometer are notoriously difficult to remove and reinstall.
both gauges are a fairly tight fit into their ABS plastic mounting pods. I took a soldering iron, melted the edges of the pods with a series of small depressions at 12-3-6 and 9 o’clock. The melted ridges of the burns created slightly raised areas which provided a very tight interference fit for both gauges. I have found this works just fine and there is really no need for those brackets at all.
P.S. - this works fine on my early two pod dash, not sure it performs the same on the single pod version
Larry
It depends on which dash you have. On the single pod you have to drop the steering column down to access the inner fastener.
Thanks guys. Larry, you are correct. The fit is fairly snug. Doug, my car is a 1973.
Jimmy,
Early '73's had the dual pod dash and late '73's had the single pod dash. I believe the transition occurred around 5200.
Hi David, my car was built in Feb 1973 if I remember correctly but it has been awhile. It is a single pod dash,
At this point not all cars are stock. Why I would I presume that it could only be a dual pod? Mine, 4460, is a '73 and has been changed to a single pod. I'm sure others have as well.
Well the job wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. Did the job in sitting, and was able to loosen both of the thumb screws without getting under the dash.
Doug, as an owner of two cars and an owner of one of my cars for 31 years which is just about done, I am more than well aware of what modifications can be done to these cars. You asked a question and I simply answered it.
I thought the “L” transition occurred with (something like) VIN 4260…. But 4280 had a dual pod dash….
I think it’s not so cut and dried….
Whatever was available to keep the assembly line rolling was what DT used….
Italian craftsmanship, and all….
😎
My response isn't pointed at you. Often newbies appear here and are so disoriented they can't even ask a question that they show they know which way is up.
I don't approach answering as a right or wrong thing. I try to share what I know, not what I don't but it helps if the original question is specific so I don't have to take the criticism of going off on a tangent again.
In many cases I admit it is my own fault and I cause confusion. I presume a level of basic knowledge that unfortunately proves isn't present.
Rocky, I would probably agree with that statement. There was probably a chassis number where certain upgrades were done, but that isn’t saying if that part wasn’t available that they wouldn’t use something else just to keep things moving down the assembly line.
The reason why I had to remove my tachometer was the directional indicator light wouldn’t illuminate when I put the directional to the right. Outside the car the right blinkers worked. I had my interior reupholstered and since the dash was out it would be easier to replace the bulbs. I decided to put LED’s in to illuminate the poorly lit gauges. It was the LED that was the problem. I put the OEM style bulb in and the problem was resolved, however the LED was still in the tach socket, so that had to be fished out. I spoke to Jon at Pantera Electronics and they have a solution for this. I didn’t buy the LED’s from them but Jon was very helpful.
Hope this helps anyone who encounters this issue.
