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'That perfect match up'

G Guest
Planning ahead for my GT4 conversion, i'm trying to achieve that certain look where the wheels fit correctly around the flares. I know this has a lot to do with the offsets, but as you know it's always best to place the new wheels onto the car first then fit the flares around them.I'm sure there are only a couple of inches at most before the flares are totally out of position. To achieve 'that perfect match up',between flares and wheels, would you have to lower the suspension? If so, would it mean cutting the springs or using lowering block? It is necessary to be well informed on what is necessary to achieve that corect look so as you can be absolutely clear in telling the garage exactly what you are looking for.

I'm not sure how many of you agree but regardless of how attractive a car is, this either makes or brakes a car.
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markmmarkmBuy now, pay later!
I'm not sure how many of you agree but regardless of how attractive a car is, this either makes or brakes a car.[/QUOTE]

I agree Smiler

lowering blocks will not work. There is a small spacer that can be removed in the front & rear shock/spring assembly that will lower the car slightly maybe an inch. beyond that you would need new springs and or shocks. Cutting the spring may work but not recommended as it will not seat right after being cut
George PGeorge PAdmin.
To the lower the car, you'll need some modern gas shocks that have adjustable spring perches. Koni offers an adjustable spring "kit" for their steel bodied gas shocks, that's what I have on my Pantera. Koni also offers alloy bodied shocks with adjustable spring perches that are standard. There are other brands of shock offered by the various vendors too. I just happen to be a life long Koni fan, I like the ride Koni shocks give a car. Very well dampened without being stiff.

Lower the car to the point where all 4 lower control arms are parallel with the ground.

Your friend on the DTBB
D detom (Guest)
Hey George, have you ever seen them low rider cars? I saw a pick up truck done that a way when I was at the rod run in pigeon forge. It looked like it would be scrapping the ground but no sparks was coming out of it. I wondered how they do that. Do they take the springs plumb out?? Would that work ok???
moosomoosoMember
I agree...adjustable shocks will do the trick. I have Alden Eagle shocks. I'm not too crazy about the ride. I would spend the extra for Konis if I had it to do over.
I found that I had to replace the rear upper A-arms with adjustable ones to square up the rear tires. The fronts had enough adjustment on my car to get the proper alignment, but some owners have had to slightly extend the oval holes at the ends of the front upper A-arms to get enough adjustment.
A Pantera just doesn't look "right" until it is lowered!
Later, Mooso.
joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
Mooso,

So what's up with the ride of the Aldan Eagles?

Koni's are more expensive than the Aldan Eagles?

I was looking through posts on shocks recently and everyone else has been singin' their praises, have you tried different spring ratings on them?

Julian
M micks74 (Guest)
Bulldog....Instead of buying the shocks at this time, try removing the shocks and install a strut in its place. Put the car up on jack stands to unload the suspension, remove the shock, install the wheel and jack the suspension up till you get your desired look. Measure the distance from hole to hole of the shock mounts and put a strut in the shocks place. Just make sure you get soemthing that will support the engine and tranny if still installed. I doubt the strut length would be the same from side to side so you would have to find middle ground. Afterall, these cars were hand built! I just proof read this and I think it would probably easier to buy the shocks. Sorry for wasting space. Red Face
H Hawaii (Guest)
Bull Dog
I'm in the process of conversion now, like LPB said. I'm using Hall's fiberglass GT-5 flares, so it may be different than a group 4 kit and or in steel, but from what I have found is that you have really no adjustment up and down because the flare must match the body crease of the car. The only adjustment you have is side to side. So yes, definately mount the wheels and tires you want to use then get the side to side adjusted the way you want and worry about the ride height later when you buy some sort of adjustable shocks. I'm running Hall adjustables. Just talk to someone who used your exact flare and get his exact wheel size and offset to make sure it's not to big or too small or sticking out to far or sitting in board to far.

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H Hawaii (Guest)
Another shot. Lots of work yet to be done. Just making sure everything clears before any body work is done. I have not yet got up enough nerve to do a 160mph test run and hit a dip in the road to see if anything rubs!!! I guess I could jack each wheel up to the highest wheel travel....yeah that would work. Big Grin

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moosomoosoMember
I may not be the best source for Alden impressions. I got mine from a guy that was converting his car to full race suspension. They may not be up to the standards of new ones.
They originally came from Hall. Two springs were black and two were orange. I'm not sure which spring rates those were. Also, I lowered mine WAY down!. I may have gone too low and am causing my own binding issues. I repalced the bushings with Polys (another harsh choice) and went to 17" wheels with very low sidewall tires.
The car is at the body shop so I can't be more specific. How about feedback from some of you that got in on that Alden group buy a while back?
Later, Mooso.
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