Tips for doing the dreaded Clutch Master

Great tips. Wish I'd seen them before the 2.5 hour under-the-dash-wrestling-tournament I went through!

Maybe I should just keep quiet, but while these mods for sure makes it easier, the first timer should know that they're not absolutely necessary. I've changed the clutch master on two Panteras, first in French parking lot with Roland, and later alone in my garage, max 2 hours.

Just my $0.02

For some the mods might not be necessary, but for my big, ham-handed self they were a Godsend; especially since I don't have any helpers.

Spending less than 20 seconds up under the dash makes it well worthwhile, especially for someone like me who doesn't care for confined spaces.

I took my time, cut the flap in the felt, cut the hole, removed the old master, bench bled the new master, installed the master, lubed all the linkages, and bled the system all in under 35 minutes. Now that I've done it once I could do it again by myself in 15-20 minutes tops.

If you're not lucky, there are a few things that can stretch out clutch master changes to days, even with a hole bored in the side of the pedal box:

1)- the pin holding the clevis is seized in the hole. It cannot be pressed out towards the outside of the car, which is the only direction one can get a swing with a pounding-tool. A variation of this involves a groove and burr being worn into the pin, so it forms a step that keeps the pin from being pulled out of the clevis.

2)- the rubber boot on the end of the master is solvent-welded to the pedal plate hole from long-term clutch fluid leaks. This effectively glues the master cylinder to the plate firmly enough to require a press to dislodge the assembly. This cannot be done in the car.

3)- you lose one or both snap-rings on the connecting pin while trying to get them loose. They are dull black to perfectly match the rugs on the floor so once they land somewhere, they are invisible. Most shops and parts stores do not carry that small size snap-ring in stock.

If you're curious, the best way I've found for dealing with the first two maladies is to bite the bullet and unbolt the entire pedal plate from the car. Then unbolt the power booster from the pedal and the plate but leave the lines attached; they will flex enough to allow the plate to come out so no brake bleeding need be done. Finally, unfasten the clutch line, unscrew the rod from the clevis and pull the pedal plate out sideways from under the booster. Then you can have your way with the stuck components.

I think a lot of Pantera owners buy the car thinking its a FORD. Well sort of. Its still a low production Italian car that dosent have all the little things worked out (access). Most italian cars of that era have similar problems. I am currently working on the cooling system lines and water pump on our Bora and I will tell you its a bitch. Fortunately I dont have big fat hands. LOL I was joking with my dad about it and he told me its a good think I didn't need it for work on Monday as a probably wouldn't have a job left. LOL. This is the way it is we just learn to accept it. BTW Ferrari is absolutely no better. Dad has a 348 and did the belt service a couple of years back we dropped the entire engine trans and subframe. Wasn't too hard good thing we have a lift.

Well, I got to do the Clutch Master all over again! I bought one of the Masters that Wilkinson has (the ones that say DeTomaso on the side).

DO NOT USE DOT 3 FLUID IN THESE MASTERS!!! The fluid turned black with large chunks of rubber. The seals were eaten up within the 1st 30 miles of use. Use DOT 4. I got mine at NAPA.

Thankfully I had a brand new 19.05mm M/C piston with seals on hand and I was able to change it out very quickly. I discovered another bonus to having the hole in the side of the footbox; I was able to use a long handled screwdriver as a lever to easily work the clutch linkage and bleed the system myself without having to keep getting in and out of the car.

I don't think it's a problem with the fluid, but rather the master cylinder.

PCNC member Ron DeMaderios went through five of these "new" master cylinders within a few months and had quite the time figuring out why his new master cylinders went bad almost immediately. It's not because he used DOT 3 fluid.

Read about his and fellow club members' experiences shared with the group in last month's newsletter, page 5:
http://www.panteraclubnorcal.c...rticles/News1206.pdf

That's disappointing to see.

I emailed Wilkinson about it 11 days ago,
but they never replied back.

UPDATE.

I just finished a 30 mile run and when I checked the Clutch Master the fluid was already turning dark!

What a crock of crap!

I'm not sure that particular vendor knows, but it's been discussed a lot on the POCA forum. Some vendors were reportedly going through several of them on the same car. I have one on my car but it doesn't have fluid. I've heard reports that there is a Wilwood clutch master cylinder that can be made to fit.

I believe I'm just going to have the original clutch master re-sleeved in bronze or stainless; that's what I did with the original brake master & it worked great.

quote:

I'm just going to have the original clutch master re-sleeved in bronze or stainless; that's what I did with the original brake master & it worked great.

And THAT my friends is why we NEVER throw out the old parts! Now if I could just get my wife to understand why we have boxes of old parts that I'll hopefully never use again for different cars cluttering the garage.

Interesting. I'm trying to remove the master right now. After unscrewing the bowl I found
allot of gunk in there so I'm going to replace it. Might be why my free play disappears when things get heated up since everything else has been replaced. Okay about the hole. Does this allow a way to get to the two "FU" nuts that hold the master in place. When I turn them they spin under the dash. No way to get a hold of them.

As far as said vendor. I stay mad at him, many unpleasant experiences but he has the original stuff and I'm fanatical about keeping things original, so what are you going to do? I take it these aren't factory originals?

When my original clutch master went bad I stopped by a local Alfa Romero shop and they had one that looked exactly like mine as we put them side by side. It bolted right in and it has been in my car pushing a centerforce clutch pressure plate since 1998 now with no issues and it cost half of what the vender was asking back then.

At this time I also wanted to replace my centerforce clutch disk that was worn out however centerforce would not sell just the disk and wanted me to buy a new flywheel, disk, pressure plate, and t/o bearing for like $1,000.00. They told me they sell clutch kits and not just individual parts.

Living on a budget I went to Kragen Auto and they let me look at all the Ford disks they had.

I ended up just resurfaced the flywheel $25 bucks, cleaned up the pressure plate, and replaced the disk with a lifetime mustang clutch disk from Kragen auto parts (now O'Reilly's) for $50 bucks that was slightly smaller in diameter but the correct thickness and spline count.

The Alfa Romero Clutch Master and Mustang disk have been working fine with my Centerforce flywheel & pressure plate in my car since 1998. The disk I bought was made by Zoom Performance, made 11/98 and part number RCF 595. I got this info off of the box which I have kept all these years for when I need to buy another disk. This disk most likely would not work with a stock Pantera clutch system or a race application. As for my stock 351c with a performer manifold and Carter AFB carb street Pantera it has served me well and is still going.

I hope this info is helpful to others and I am only sharing my experience and not making any recomendations or warranties should anyone try what I have done.

RRS1, the simplest way to hold the clutch master bolts is with a small pair of needle-nose vice-grips. And be prepared to lose the tiny snap-ring(s) holding the cross-pin in place; they tend to pop out of whatever tool you remove them with and fly like birds....Then you find the parts stores don't stock them.

Mine had a cotter pin, just pulled it out. I've come along way since that post. I'm a master clutch master remover power booster too. Didn't even bore the hole. I love spending time with my head in that footwell! Really.

Did use the small needle-nose vise grip. Worked great.

Mine had the cotter pin as well.

Just did my clutch master and slave, now stainless steel sleeved. Managed to remove the clevis pin without cutting holes or removing the pedal box. Used cir-clip pliers to remove the clips, and small locking pliers to twist and wriggle the pin free. The pin had wear groves and burrs making it difficult as previously mentioned. The pushrod rubber boot had vulcanised to the firewall, had to destroy it to remove the master.

Garth,
Thanks for pointing us to that newsletter article.
Was the shop info ever shared that does the rebuilds:
Quote: "He found a shop that will sleeve the inside with a stainless steel sleeve and fit new seals for only $70"

Or, is there a source for the sleeves/seals so folks can do it themselves?

Thanks.