Trying to find Boss 351 Rod Bolts & Nuts

After all this time, for an orphaned engine who's parts likely sell slowly, old p/ns tend to disappear- sorry. But PAW in Chatsworth, CA has an on-line catalogue that shows p/n PAB-8241 for what appears to be gr-8+ rod bolts & nuts (in their cranks/rods section) for a 351-C. Browse to www.pawengineparts.com. My present engine (now 19 years old) has quite a few PAW parts inside and I had zero problems with anything. But since I have no direct experience with these bolts, call their Tech Line to verify they are direct replacements that will need no massaging in your rods. Good luck

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PAB-8241

Bosswrench THANKS for the tip!!! These bolts are rated at 190,000psi which is slightly higher than the Boss bolts. Nice site for other parts too. Thanks again.

A good source for hard to find oem Ford performance parts is Perogie Enterprises in New Jersey.

The correct way to change rod bolts is to clamp the rod in a vise with the cap aligned to the rod and then take the bolt out.
If you don't do this then the cap will often misalign itself to the rod.

Pantera Doug if there anybody out there that might have them is my buddy - I will check w/ him and try Green sales Co or Bill Herndon
Too bad you could use Boss 302 rods as i have 2 NOS set & 5 used sets
Mike #7042

Ok so I have tried allot of vendors to find an upgrade to rod bolts...PAW Ent.(part not available), Perogie (nope), many other vendors (you want what??? ) etc, etc. It's not looking good that I can just take a stronger bolt the same weight and size and just swap the bolt and close the bottom end without resizing, and re-balancing the rotating assembly which requires total disassembly of the motor. That was not my goal since the motor was balanced and everything was redone 50 miles ago by the previous owner...more importantly I should be spending time elsewhere on the car so it gets out of the damn garage (sorry for swearing George).

So now my question is, can the stock lower end(specifically rods and bolts) of a 72 CJ motor that is balanced and limited to 6000 rpm stay together reliably if the horsepower is pushed to 450 based on some of Dan Jones recommended mods such as cam, 10.5 to 1 CR? 90% street driven and a few track days per year.

A wise man suggested that he'd not heard that the bolts fail that often. If it's a part that fails 1 in 10,000 motors of similar mods, screw it I need to move on. But if it's 1 in 50 or 100, I'll bite the bullet becuase I don't want to be foolish on time and $200. So from everyone's experiences...is this a part with high failure rate given my intended use? THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL YOUR EXPERIENCE. Geez, I've forgotten how much time these little tinny projects can consume.

Tom,
Call ARP and ask what the weight of a replacement APR Pro Series bolt is, maybe the same or over. Its worth 220,000 psi
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
if so, buy a digital gram scale and grind the end till you get the desired weight?.

SickCat, I thought about doing that but heard that the diameter of the ARP bolts are a tad different and because of that it requires resizing the rod end??? I've been told by some that I should do that with any bolt.

Anyone know what the strength the stock CJ motor rod bolts are?

I will call ARP. THANKS

Pardon this comment, but I think you are worrying about nothing. It's balanced, and you're staying below 6k rpm. I'd bet that many other parts would fail before the rod bolts (like the rods themselves or the rod bearings if you're running hard). I know that more than a few of us have flogged Ford V8s w/ all-stock bottom ends comprised of 40-year old parts. How many blown engines are caused by an internal bolt failure? I don't hear of it very often. Sorry, just trying to save you some time and $$.

And you're right, the Ford dealer is never a good place to go for old parts. I feel that any of the good old hi-per parts they had were bought up many years ago.

CBO1 I appreciate the comment, that's exactly what I wanted to hear...I'd rather button up the pan and get on with it.