wheres this bit from?

I am thinking 'another car' perhaps.
I cant think of any part of a Pantera that looks like that and covered in leather.
If it is pantera related, I will be learning something as well.

It is a filler trim panel on the lower part of an early twin pod dash. It goes behind the hood pull leaver.

quote:

Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
It is a filler trim panel on the lower part of an early twin pod dash. It goes behind the hood pull leaver.

I will have a look later when the frosts gone, but my dash isn't a 2 pod, and my carpet extends up behind the bonnet pull lever?

It is for the other style twin pod dash---you will not need it for a single pod version---just extra weight. You have the earlier type console so the could have been on this car. It should mount under the bonnet--hood lever under the dash on the left side. Later single pod molded dash cars did not have this filler. Let me know if you need a picture.

Right thanks for the info Kirk, I don't recall unscrewing it even, but I won't be trying to find where it goes now.

Couple of other things, you can just see the switch with the red centre in my gauge console.

no wiring is attached to this switch, and I am told by a bloke in Australia he has one on his MK 3 Jensen Interceptor, and its a test switch to check if all the brake warning lamps are in good nick.

Also I have no door keys, is the number in the barrel locks somewhere?? all help appreciated Pete

quote:

Couple of other things, you can just see the switch with the red centre in my gauge console.

no wiring is attached to this switch, and I am told by a bloke in Australia he has one on his MK 3 Jensen Interceptor, and its a test switch to check if all the brake warning lamps are in good nick.

If the red center switch you are referring to is round, then the following is pertinent.

If it is the rectangle switch with red in your center console we are talking about, see the next couple of posts.

That is the hazard flasher switch.

ALL signal lights run through that switch. To remove it from the stock wiring and still have all lights functioning was quite the bit of effort.

New switches are available in the $60 - $100 range. They were OEM to BMW cars, among others,and did come in different versions that differ in the number of contacts.

Door locks are Fiat of the era, and initially the doors and the trunk lock were keyed alike. I'd remove the trunk lock - its obviously the easiest to remove -and go to an old school locksmith who should be able to cut a key for you. IF no locks have been changed, then you should also have a key that fits your door locks

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:

quote:

Couple of other things, you can just see the switch with the red centre in my gauge console.

no wiring is attached to this switch, and I am told by a bloke in Australia he has one on his MK 3 Jensen Interceptor, and its a test switch to check if all the brake warning lamps are in good nick.

That is the hazard flasher switch.

ALL signal lights run through that switch. To remove it from the stock wiring and still have all lights functioning was quite the bit of effort.

New switches are available in the $60 - $100 range. They were OEM to BMW cars, among others,and did come in different versions that differ in the number of contacts.

Door locks are Fiat of the era, and initially the doors and the trunk lock were keyed alike. I'd remove the trunk lock - its obviously the easiest to remove -and go to an old school locksmith who should be able to cut a key for you. IF no locks have been changed, then you should also have a key that fits your door locks

Larry

The door lock info was invaluable Larry, will remove the boot lock as you recommend.
But the switch with the red centre is a spring return only switch, you would have to hold it down for it to operate, Puzzling.

Thank you very much for your help Peter.

quote:

But the switch with the red centre is a spring return only switch, you would have to hold it down for it to operate, Puzzling.

If the red center switch you are referring to is round, then the following is pertinent.

If it is the rectangle switch with red in your center console we are talking about, see the next couple of posts.

Not at all puzzling, really.

Yes, it is supposed to latch on when pushed. Then unlatch when again pushed.

What you describe is what a -- broken -- switch does.


This explains why it has been removed from the wiring.

This is a well known failure mode for this switch. When this happens, all your signal lights go dark. Yup, they ALL go through this switch in day to day use, not just for flasher duty. It is common to do a cheap on-the-road fix by using a thin toothpick or similar item, wedged between the black housing and the red button. At just the right position, all the lights will return to functional.

The switch can be opened and repaired, but not necessarily an easy project. I did mine last year, and so far so good. But really it would have been much simpler to just buy a new one.

You'll need to do some research on this site to help you get things back to stock. Something like 7-9 wires attach to the switch, and if one is out of place, then ......

Having fun yet?

Larry

I think he is referring to the one below the window switches.

Doug M

Yeah, the hazard switch is over in the area above the hood release, next to the wiper switch to the left of the steering wheel. The switch below the window switches looks just like the brake warning light on an MGB. If the brakes fail the light lights up. You press the rocker to test the light function. I clicked on the picture of the dash and there are links to other pictures and of them definitely looks like the MGB brake switch.

quote:

Originally posted by Doug M:
I think he is referring to the one below the window switches.

Doug M

here is a picture of the brake test light from an MGB

It also works as described, you press against the switch and it lights, release and it goes out. doesn't "latch". Not too surprised to see it in a Pantera since they both share LUCAS electronics.

quote:

I think he is referring to the one below the window switches.

I think you're right.

I've edited my earlier posts so as to not confuse Peter.

At least no more than he already is trying to sort out his car.

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:

quote:

I think he is referring to the one below the window switches.

I think you're right.

I've edited my earlier posts so as to not confuse Peter.

At least no more than he already is trying to sort out his car.

Larry

well Then an MGB switch, who would have thought it! and me a TR4 man!

the help on this forum is so good and it does help a novice greatly, My electricals I have working, all except for the lamp which is in between the rev counter and speedo. This comes on when the handbrake is applied, which is all OK
Problem is if I leave the cable connected the the alloy brake valve the light is on permanently because the spool isn't centred, so I have left the wire disconnected, Brakes seem fine by the way. Second problem, I'm told by Larry Stock that there are 2 types of key for the doors and hood any more info would be helpful thanks Pete I have just received a picture of both key blanks from Mr Stock, not 10 mins after my request, thats damn good service isn't it, just got to find which will fit 3840!

quote:

because the spool isn't centred, so I have left the wire disconnected, Brakes seem fine by the way.

Have you jacked the car up and confirmed all four calipers are functioning? Or does "fine" mean the car stops?

Please know even a fully shifted 'spool' will not totally block that side's plumbing, so you may not notice reduced braking in normal driving.

A buildup of varnish will lock the 'spool' to one side. Sometimes a HARD, abrupt punch on the brake pedal, or several, will jar it back into proper position.

Often occurs after bleeding the brakes, when lack of pressure due to open bleeder valve lets the un-open side of the shuttle valve push the 'spool' into the varnish where it sticks.

Not as much a problem if you use the Motive pressure bleeder or similar device. which relies on just 10psi instead of the high pressures found when doing the push pedal-open valve-repeat dance.

Larry

I do get your point Larry, the car is now having its British Ministry of transport 12 month inspection, our MOT test, I have asked the garage to bleed the brakes for me. when I gat the car back I shall reconnect the cable and see if the spool has centralised.