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After trying to avoid this as long as I can I am now having to address my window issue. Neither of the windows in my car really go up or down. The driver's side doesn't work at all. he passenger side goes up about 3/4 and stops.
I have taken the motors out and spun them to verify they work. I replaced the plastic gears with the brass versions and basically done everything I can think of. I am considering purchasing the Vader cable setup? I don't want to buy that and mess it up because I have another problem. I know I have power to both window motors but it seems like the window motors have a lot of current pull? Does this make sense? Thanks, in advance, for the help guys!

- Marc
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The motors may work but have inadequate torque to raise the glass. The track or mechanism could be gummy thus making additional resistance that bogs down the already inadequate motors. The fuse (for the dead side) could be blown. The switch could be dead or have poor contacts thus preventing adequate voltage to the motor. Just some thoughts. I'm sure you've already checked most of them but in case you hadn't...

Good luck!
Mark
The windows are notorious for being finicky in regards to how the channels are set up. Even new motors,or Ted's set-up will work hard if things are not aligned correctly.

This can be an hours-long chore, so be prepared.

There is no "this-is-how-it-goes" solution, you have to remove the door panel and just start loosening things up, fiddling until you find the sweet spots.

Larry
I always had problems on the drivers side only with the brass geared motor not quite able to raise the window without help. I disconneced the lower ends of the guides while raising and lowering the window, and slotted the door frame holes so all stress was (apparently) removed. I also shimmed the regulator out from the door a bit for the same reason. Both these helped- a little.
In disgust in early '06, I spent a bunch of money on Ted's 'Vader' system & installed it in 40 minutes (for both sides). Zero troubles since. The Vader system includes his own pre-formed window guides and seems to have a more powerful motor that somehow uses less amperage than stock for 2-6X quicker roll-up times. Bonuses are the almost 15 lbs of weight lost for the stock stuff no longer used, and the glass now goes all the way down level with the door tops. The single hitch I had was, on the passenger side there was so much undercoating on the inside of the door-skin I had to scrape some off to allow the window to roll down completely. This incidently is covered in the illustrated 4 pg instructions. And it still only took 40 min for both, with no holes drilled, no bending or twisting, hand tools only and no naughty words needed during installation. Written up in Oct 06 POCA News and highly recommended!
Ted Mitchel's window lift assemblies work really nice with the added benefit of having the window rolling all the way flush with the frame and loosing the weight of all those old parts as Jack mentioned. My friend has it on his Pantera and it is a configuration used on late model Ford sedans, simple and works very well. The drawback to me was the cost ($700 at the time) so I went the cheap route with the Aerostar motor converstion. The new motor is direct drive, draws less amps with a lot more torque. I would recomend the Taurus motor conversion though in hindsight if you don't intend on ever going back as it is a lot simpler. Either way,make sure you put all the alignment shims where you found them or you will have fun lining up again.

Good luck with that.
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