Motor Mount Pics?

The washers should go against the bolt head and nut. The rubber parts should register into the smaller diameter openings of the castings.

Note that the lower castings have a left and right. The upper parts are identical. Look at the photo of the right side mount, and note the fwd bias of the hole position. It would be easy to get this mixed up if the mounts were removed from the frame.

Another view of right side.

Thanks Dave!
Perfect

I helped Mike Drew reinstall his motor yesterday and we (as do many others) flipped the bolts so they go down through the mounts, nut bottom. The theory being if a nut ever comes off the bolt stays in place rather than drop out.

Just be sure to place the blot through the upper mount prior to dropping the engine in place.

Julian

quote:

we (as do many others) flipped the bolts so they go down through the mounts, nut bottom. The theory being if a nut ever comes off the bolt stays in place rather than drop out.

On our '72 L, the long bolts were drilled on their bottoms for a cotter pin apparently to retain the nut if/when things loosen, but getting it into the bolt's hole is tricky. I substituted a loop-pin and used a long pair of needle-nose pliers, but it was still not simple.

What happens is, over time the rubber shrinks, loosening what torque there is on the long bolt. It's especially bad on the left side from header heat.

This is a good one. Do ya think this is one of the good reasons to replace the motor mounts?

Yeah, I got a pic to post, lol, (sorry, newbie on the forum).

So I guess over 42 years, the rubber mount can do more than shrink, eh Bosswrench?

Can the motor mounts be r&r while engine is in the car?

quote:

Originally posted by 1topcat:
Can the motor mounts be r&r while engine is in the car?

Yes.


Ron

I guess I should have asked how do you R&R when it is on a 2 post lift? jack up the motor under the upper mount one side at a time?