4 row condensor vs. stock 3 row

Topcat, I am in the process of redoing my entire a/c system right now. I am putting in a 4 row condensor, I have replaced the stock fan with a Hayden 10 " fan that does about 650 CFM which I think is about double the stocker. I have seen a Vintage Air fan that is supposed to push over 1400cfm. That may go on once the system is put back together.
I am replacing the underdash evaporator with one from Pantera East that eliminates one row of heater core and adds one row of evaporator core in its place and also adding their hi-output blower which has 3 speeds instead of just 2.
I am also replacing all of the hoses and I think it makes sense if you are replacing some of them to do them all. The ones going up to the dash area require removal of the firewall cover, console and lower dash area.

I plan to have it all hooked up in the next 3 weeks and will report back on how it all works. I am waiting to get my 4 row condensor back, I damaged it slightly putting it in so I sent it back to Marino at Pantera East and he is sending back to the manufacturer for the repair. Everything else will be ready to go next weekend.

Gary#06984

Are you refering to the condensor fan? Also, mine is a 71' and the 2 hoses coming up front run along inside the passenger side rocker. I'll probably be doing that with my one day off this weekend.(Just removing and replacing with some new ones). Keep me posted on the outcome of this project. Now you have me wondering about my stock evap. I didn't know they offered that upgrade. That's something I'll probably do as well.

Definitions: the Pantera's condenser is in the rear while the evaporator is under the dash, just so we are talking of the same parts. OK; remember, the interior volume of a 2-seat car is quite small, similar to a mini-pickup truck, so increasing the size of the cooling components IMHO is like bandaging a bleeding bullet hole- it addresses the symptom, not the problem. The Pantera's components are OK (for the'70s); the arrangement is unusual. The only real design issue is the excessive length of the lines, and the fact that they are all rubber, promoting leaks. A leaky $30,000 system won't keep one cool. To have an operating system in your car, use the absolute best lines you can find such as barrier hoses with o-ring end connectors.Second, a positive shut-off of the hot water running thru the heate core (the stock valve cannot shut off water AND open fully). Third, be sure the tiny "secret" filter in the under-dash valve is clear of 30 yrs of debris. And finally, move enough air through the AC condenser core to heat-exchange the freon. The rotary compressor is lighter, more efficient and vibrates less than a rotary, but there are may cars out there with fresh lines, tight connections, full loads of freon and old Yorks, that pump 34-degree air.

Definitions: the Pantera's condenser is in the rear while the evaporator is under the dash, just so we are talking of the same parts. OK; remember, the interior volume of a 2-seat car is quite small, similar to a mini-pickup truck, so increasing the size of the cooling components IMHO is like bandaging a bleeding bullet hole- it addresses the symptom, not the problem. The Pantera's components are OK (for the'70s); the arrangement is unusual. The only real design issue is the excessive length of the lines, and the fact that they are all rubber, promoting leaks. A leaky $30,000 system won't keep one cool. To have an operating system in your car, use the absolute best lines you can find such as barrier hoses with o-ring end connectors.Second, a positive shut-off of the hot water running thru the heate core (the stock valve cannot shut off water AND open fully). Third, be sure the tiny "secret" filter in the under-dash valve is clear of 30 yrs of debris. And finally, move enough air through the AC condenser core to heat-exchange the freon. The rotary compressor is lighter, more efficient and vibrates less than a rotary, but there are may cars out there with fresh lines, tight connections, full loads of freon and old Yorks, that pump 34-degree air. Oh, yes- forgot: according to the mfgr (Aeroquip) braided-stainess teflon hose is porous to R-12 & not recommended.

Topcat,I was referring to the fan on the condensor. I can send you an email picture of my fan mounting if you'd like. I am also using all barrier hoses with o-ring fittings like you suggest, Jack.


Gary

Yeah I'd like to see a picture of that, "bullit@ev1.net" is my e-mail. Thanks for the advice on the type of hoses Jack. I took off all the hoses this evening. I attatched pull wires to the ones going to the front to make it a little easier to run the new ones. Heater shut-off valves are already in, so I'm good there. Thanks again, Eric #2282

Eric,

I would suggest you reconsider your intent to retain the R-12. Yes it is available, and yes it does a better job than 134a. But, sure is damn expensive when you go through normal channels. And getting harder and harder to find shops that still do the work. Since you will have a new compressor and drier, maybe condenser too, and all new lines, it would be the perfect time to flush out the old R-12 system oil that will be remaining only in the evaporator and do the switch to 134a. Whatever you do, make sure the hoses are the newer barrier type for yours, or a future owner's, 134a conversion. R-12 or 134a, you might add a high pressure cut-out switch to the system at this time, too. You can wire it in to drop the compressor clutch out if you ever get the known high-speed air starvation at the condensor problem that can cause temps/pressure to rise enough to blow out hoses/fittings. Here's to cold air at the vents which ever way you go.

Larry

sorry about the delay, I am sending the photos tonight

the condensor is actually out of the car I tried to get a closeup of the mounting spacer

Gary

No problem, I'm not even at that stage yet. I'm also trying to figure out how to reroute these hoses through the center console instead of the rocker panel. I'd like to keep them out of the rocker area in case I need to rerun wires through that area. With the a/c hoses in there it's extremely tight. I tried to do a search but nothing. Also want to reroute the rear hoses to the passenger side wheel well area. Looking for photos if anyone has any.

I still have to send the pictures, Damn modern technology, I got my computer working took several pictures and the floppy disc was corrupted!!! Anyway, I believe changing the routing through the console should be fairly easy. The hoses pass through an oblong hole behind the passenger seat curve through the console under the radio and up to the evaporator. If I were doing this job I would look at one of the bulkhead manifolds that the a/c guys sell and mount that to the firewall and use o-ring fittings on each side.

As far as mounting the a/c hoses through the inner fenderwell, it is a piece of cake! The only modification needed is to make a hole large enough to run the 2 hoses. I also ran the tailight loom through this hole. Again, I would probably use the manifolds here too if I had seen them before I had my body guy enlarge the hole. I used stainless steel braided barrier a/c hoses that look pretty trick but were big $$$$'s. I can send pictures of this also (soon as I resolve the technology issues mentioned above)

Gary

Topcat, you should finally have the pictures

Gary

Thanks, I recieved the pictures last week. Been busy with house related projects so I haven't had the chance to get back with you. The pics look great. For anyone who hasn't seen this car-- you should! Polished engine bay and engine that gleams!! It looks really good. If possible could you e-mail me a picture of the hoses that come off the condenser, drier and route into the fenderwell. I want to do mine that way and would like to have something to go by. Thanks again. No rush, I just ordered parts yesterday. And I'm sure you're still in the process of getting everything together still.