4 V Heads and a adjustable valvetrain

Adjustable Pedestal Mount Roller Rocker Arms

• Requires no machining, mounts solidly to the factory cylinder head's slotted pedestal, utilizing a steel saddle and 5/16 bolt.
  
  
• Utilizes a push rod cup style adjuster, functionally the same as an individual shaft mount rocker arm.
  
  
• Allows rocker arm geometry to be set with the cylinder head on the bench using a readily available shim kit.
  
  
• Lash adjustment does not impact rocker arm geometry.
  
  
• Promotes better valve train stability than push rod guided rocker arms.
  
  
• 1.73:1 ratio, Big Block Ford applications: 351C, 351M, 400, 429, 460.
  
  
• Made in America.

I have so moch wrong parts at home

quote:

Originally posted by GT4Peter:


The custom cam projekt is to difficult, because my engine machinist have not the tools for doing an adjustable valvtrain.
I have to buy everything here and pay tax ec,.. for this money , I can import a complete engine :-(

have you considered this seriously? sourcing bits for us is easy & expected to return many items by the time a project is done. professional shops return many also even with all the experience they have

I'm sure there's a shop or 2 that would be happy to build an engine for you, you may think it's an enormous expense but it may end up being a tremendous savings!

https://www.summitracing.com/i...p-mr1867rs/overview/

do you think this studs are ok , for my crane roller rockers ?

no length dimensions are given, I wouldn't buy them based on that alone. almost predictably the 351C requires longer studs than what the vendor suggests ... and that means a return / exchange until you find the correct length

you need to know the length of the thread that goes down into the head, the length of the unthreaded shank and the length of the threaded area for the adjuster (effective length). the height of the hex is also nice to know

a shop that is set up to do the work properly with a Bridgeport type milling machine will likely have several sample studs of various lengths on hand and the correct stud can be determined in minutes rather than multiple overseas shipping exercises

also, using the cutter tool you posted w/o the Bridgeport style milling machine runs the risk of ruining your heads, the angles are critical to the pushrod and more important roller tips on the rockers to the valve stems

Use these.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-84427

Boss 302 studs. They are longer than the Chevy studs.

Thanks ☺

Wich valve guides do you use ? ☺

The valve guide I use is the one that you may have seen in the Edelbrock heads as well as other aftermarket aluminum heads.

It is made by Precision Engineering in Las Vegas, Nevada.

They are $4.50 each.

You can contact sales at Anthony@precisionengineparts.com.

You need to establish an "account" with them which basically means you need a minimum $100 purchase.

You can do it all through email. They are a reliable company and are the source for many valve train parts that "custom engine builders" use.

They make nice stuff.

Oh no

I want buy the valveguides, but they didnt answer.

I will buy some other one and cut it in the middle

It is part #B5046-SI.

http://www.precisionengineparts.com/

Anthony do not answer :-( it is realy sad, when you want to build a engine like this here in europe.
They also have nice bronce valveguides. But I can not get them, because they do not answer my mails. I do not know why.

I bought them :
MAN-42163-8
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/man-42163-8

maybe I have to drill the holes bigger .
I hope they fit !

Thanks for your help !

I also bought this stud boss cutter :
CCA-4729
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-4729


and I found longer rocker arm studs :

MIL-84351

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-84351

The guides are sold under different brands. I gave you the source.

As I said, many of the aftermarket head manufacturers use them. They really are very trick. Brodix and Edelbrock are only two. Others use them as well.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-sh545-11-32p

These are the same guides. They are just charging you more.

You need a .500" reamer (or core drill bit) and press them in. The guides measure either .501 or .502"? I forget which. That makes them a press fit.

After they are in, you run a 11/32" reamer through them to make sure that they are round after being pressed in.

They take the Teflon PC type seals.

You can trim the length in the port to whatever you want them to be but they are fine out of the box.

I cut out the remainder of the cast iron guide boss out of the port but that's not mandatory.

Update

Exhaust side

Nice guides.

They are from ThrickFlow ☺