4V port reduction

Hmmmm...they'd probably look on Ebay for a set of Aussie 2V heads and save a lot of work.

Alternatively you can purchase port stuffers from people like Parker, Roush or Aus Ford Parts amongst many and even some Pantera vendors like Marino Perna (Pantera East).

Search out some of Dan Jones posts on the web or 351C forum or even a google search will bring up a lot of good information

What I have done inthe past is, you can buy small port ingots, shape them to the bottom of the port, then screw thenm in from underneath, safetywire the screws, then use a cast iron based fillerand blend it in then grind it smooth.
Not a 5 minute job, but if you gotta run those heads, then it is worthwhile.

Larry,

Intake port tongues are normally epoxied in place and then a hole is drilled through the botton of the intake port so a screw can be sunk through the port casting and into the tongue to prevent the tongue from breaking loose.





However, rolling your own tongues seems ill-advised unless a flow bench and dyno are available to you. The 4V head is a well designed head to begin with. The 4V head & strip dominator work very well together as is (the dominator manifold uses the head's intake port the way it was designed to be used).

If you want a pre-engineered system along the lines of what you are considering Terry Parker of Australia sells intake port "tongues" that fill in the floors of the intake port, plus a very well engineered intake manifold designed to work with his tongues.

The AFD 4V alloy cylinder head has filled floors out of the box & is designed to work with Terry Parker's manifold.

My quick two cents on the 351C 4V. The 4V head is not a flawed design, it marches to an older drum beat, but it works very well as long as an engine builder understands what the motor likes and dislikes. As it came tuned by Ford there is no problem with low end torque or an overly abrupt coming on the cam at 3000 rpm; it pulls hard and linear from idle to 7000 rpm. Port velocities are good by older standards, just a bit low by modern standards. Problems with low end torque are usually the result of too much overlap, insufficient compression, ignition tuning or carburetor mis-calibration. A well tuned carburetor and a dialed-in ignition can normally restore low rpm response so long as the cam shaft design is not too far off; the 351C is a bit picky about camshaft events and its requirements are much different than those of an engine with small port cyliner heads. A 383/393/408 cubic inch stroker kit also helps bring the port velocities up to modern standards.

I also agree with Joule's sentiments, that messing with port tongues makes little sense when there are so many excellent small port cylinder heads to choose from. CHI makes a 4V head that is nothing more than their 3V head with the port flared open at the intake manifold flange to a 4V size port. It would mate with the Strip dominator out of the box. It flows about 315 cfm at 0.600" lift out the box too.

But if you just have the itch to experiment, that's cool, its not my intention to discourage you.

cowboy from hell

What you want is the Devcon epoxy. I don't know if there is an epoxy iron that they make but the sure make epoxy aluminum.

I just don't know how adviseable it is to deport the iron heads with epoxy. Sure racers do this all the time on RACE engines.

How you GUARANTY that the epoxy doesn't come loose and the engine swallow it I don't know.

I would do what those guys recommended. Leave the iron 4v's alone and get another set of heads. What do a set of bare Aussie 2v's cost $350? Why bother to make your own?

I got the the Strip Dominator cheap. It has a welded repair to the end of the flange, well outside the intake port area. It doesn't appear as if it will affect it's ability to seal properly. The carb flange has been milled flat like a Blue Thunder two plane Pantera model.

I was hoping to use it to replace the vacuum secondary 650 Speed Demon and Blue Thunder two plane on the 4V iron heads in the car now.

The question came to mind while talking to the Barry Grant tech guys about a mechanical secondary carb for the Strip Dominator.

The advice I got was that my cam (Crane "Hi Intensity" hydraulic with a duration of 224 @ .050) wouldn't be able to do much with the Strip Dominator because of low velocity in the large plenum and ports.

So, since play $ are scarcer these days I wondered if that could be practically (cheaply) remedied.

BTW, The heads already have the exhaust ports reduced by way of a flat metal piece with bent "tongues" that poke into the ports. The rest of the system are Hall 4 into 1's with stock Ansa L pipes and mufflers.

On the exhaust side my plan was to have a local header shop fab a larger collector for the Hall headers and 2.25" or 2.5" pipes into new aftermarket mufflers.

Would anyone like to weigh in on that idea?

Use the port inserts from Marino. Thin layer of Z-Spar epoxy
between the insert and screw the inserts in place so they
can never come out. Have the runners in the Strip Dominator
welded up. Jack Butler tried epoxying his 4V intake up and it
held for several seasons, then a chunk broke off and it destroyed
his engine. You need to reduce the runner all the way down its
length. Alternatively, you could sell or trade the Strip Dominator
for a Parker Funnelweb or Edelbrock/Ford Motorsport A331 intake
which already have the raised floors.

> The advice I got was that my cam (Crane "Hi Intensity" hydraulic
> with a duration of 224 @ .050) wouldn't be able to do much with
> the Strip Dominator because of low velocity in the large plenum
> and ports.

What sort of compression do you have and what is the lobe center
of the cam?

> BTW, The heads already have the exhaust ports reduced by way of
> a flat metal piece with bent "tongues" that poke into the ports.

I was recently provided a set of port stingers to test on the
dyno. Hopefully we'll test those this weekend. I also have
the intakes to test the reduced port theory but I don't have
any intake port stuffers on hand.


> On the exhaust side my plan was to have a local header shop
> fab a larger collector for the Hall headers and 2.25" or 2.5"
> pipes into new aftermarket mufflers.

2.5" into single inlet dual outlet Magnaflow oval case (long body
with short tips).

Dan Jones

Based on the recent ebay offering for AFD heads is the effort worth it to modify the closed chamber heads. Can they be made to flow as well as the AFD's? I'm also getting ready to have an engine built up and need to make the decision.
Mark