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Odometer reading 34k

As I’m getting closer to finish up my electric troubles, I started in between checking on the engine and transmission. I drained the oil on both and stuck a Borescope in both…

New clutch Assembly is visible through the window in the bell housing..

The oil in the transmission looked like new, there ring and pinion picture was excellent nice square right in the middle of the ring gear tooth - that made me happy! No rust anywhere!  I was not able to get the camera around the ring gear to see the bolts..

Now that was the good news..

The oil in the engine was black with some black pigment added to it or let’s just say it was super Duper black..

The spark plugs on the heavily torqued side.. black deposits as black as the oil, With barn door gaps…. Taking the camera down the spark plug holes, domed pistons with valve reliefs, black deposit on the tops…

my best guess is, the engine was occasionally fired up, running super rich…. (Now Carburetor overhauled, choke set half closed at 55 degree f, Didn’t change the jetting)

Cylinder walls, some hashmarks present, wear marks as well, On one cylinder wall it seemed like the ring gaps do line up with each other, Black streak straight down 😬.. I tried to make the camera turn backwards, bottoming it out on the top of the piston, hoping it points upwards to determine if I have open or closed chambers… I was not able to do it… Not because of a lack of trying!
Getting out the compression tester and here are the results… Squirted some WD-40, around the cylinder the walls the day before… WD-40 was still present in small puddles sitting on top of the piston Outside towards the cylinder wall… That’s good news didn’t drain down!

Those are definitely not excellent results, I wouldn’t even call them good but considering it’s sitting for a long time, I guess I just take it and have a go with it and see what happens and after say 500 miles I’m going to check the compression again…


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Last edited by LeMans850i
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@rene4406 posted:

You certainly know that cylinder heads with closed or open chambers are marked on the upper corner, either there is a "4" with a dot and it is an open chamber, or a "4" alone and it is a closed chamber.

This one has an open chamber, there is a dot:

I certainly did not know….
Once again, it was totally worth getting up in the morning… Learned something!!

Thank you



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George has written extensively on this topic (cylinder heads) in several threads.

Here is a good one –

I thought I remember seeing a thread, where he had created a table documenting specific heads, and he identified whether they had a dot or no dot.  

I was unable to find the table. But it was pretty clear that the dot did not guarantee any specific configuration that was obvious from looking at the head.


Great day today… isn’t it….

fixed a few more wires, and decided to take the dimmer switch apart…



if you look closely you see that the wire is broken…  IMG_1798fixed that and cleaned and greased the switch… put everything back together and… everything is working… 0 to 35.4 Ohm


and 17 seconds after that glorious moment Larry came by…

what a fabulous day

Now I go for my electric stuff I am adding..,,

hooking up the power steering, second set of headlights, new ignition switch, starter button etc. etc……


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Last edited by LeMans850i

Guys.....where is the coat hanger engineering team here!!!?????   You can EASILY check for closed/open chamber heads with a danged piece of coat hanger, or if you prefer more hitech, welding rod......

Bend it to some shape that you can get in the spark plug hole and get it back up on the head chamber surface.  Piston down in the bore would help....

Then you move the coat hanger etc in and out and feel for the contour of the it flat then suddenly drops off, or vice versa....  or does it just seem sorta "the same" all the way in and out.........

Your cylinder head dates will also give you back the event that you have a valve cover off.....   A 73-74 head will be open chamber.    I don't think I've ever seen anything refute that in any of the "How to....SBF" books....

We know that 71's will be closed chambers as the engines are (supposed to be) 351CJ Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane/Comet engines.     72 can get a bit iffy.....with some of the early cars potentially getting closed camber and later cars the open.....but with DeT's perhap lack of could be a crap shoot.

If you have your little aluminum tag on the intake somewhere with the engine code on it, you can look that up in the FORD MPC (Master Parts Catalog) for the type of engine it is......  I believe that I and perhaps others have posted pictures of that particular page or two.

Don't work so hard!


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