80 miles in 10 years… did time kill the engine?

Well, give it a little time and oil. I don't think it will improve but it could be worse!  I have 69K on mine and they are within 10lbs of each other at 150. I would like to see more but it is what it is.

Ken

You certainly know that cylinder heads with closed or open chambers are marked on the upper corner, either there is a "4" with a dot and it is an open chamber, or a "4" alone and it is a closed chamber.

This one has an open chamber, there is a dot:

@rene4406 posted:

You certainly know that cylinder heads with closed or open chambers are marked on the upper corner, either there is a "4" with a dot and it is an open chamber, or a "4" alone and it is a closed chamber.

This one has an open chamber, there is a dot:

I certainly did not know….
Once again, it was totally worth getting up in the morning… Learned something!!

Thank you

From all the things I have read, the DOT does not confirm open chamber.  The only way to tell is to pull the head.  

I read that in this book

and also often in different posts on this forum and it is true for mine ..........
But everyone can be wrong.

Many posts on many sites showing both ways.   Nothing definitive on this one.  Those Cleveland "experts" show both the dot and no dot with both.

George has written extensively on this topic (cylinder heads) in several threads.

Here is a good one –

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...er-vs-closed-chamber

I thought I remember seeing a thread, where he had created a table documenting specific heads, and he identified whether they had a dot or no dot.  

I was unable to find the table. But it was pretty clear that the dot did not guarantee any specific configuration that was obvious from looking at the head.

Rocky

Correct.  The dot does not confirm anything.  Read the first post here on Clevelands Forever FB site.  

https://www.facebook.com/group...dot%20on%204v%20head

Alright, I thought that at least was true but I was wrong.

Yes something that came up ages ago that everyone thought was true. Just ask the Mustang guys how many times it was not the case. You can only confirm by pulling the head just like you need to pull the pan in order to confirm a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main block.

And still learned something… The dot Doesn’t mean anything! 😜

Here’s a better thread on Cleveland Head ID (with Dot/No Dot commentary)…. But it seems like the best way to 100% ID them is to pull them off, as the casting number is on the bottom of the intake runners…

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...ply=1598208421011781

Rocky

Very informative but there were also intermediate models; for example my  heads are D1ZE-DA with the 4 + dot, they have 1.71'' and 2.19'' valves BUT they have a chamber volume of 78.5 cm3 and the exhaust gas recirculation system, like the D3ZE ...... The casting date is 2A24, i.e. January 24, 1972.

Engine fired up today..

it's alive!

but we know how that movie ended😬

Sitting inside, doors open, no cover over the engine inside there was zero null mechanical noise… just exhaust burbling in idle…

Congratulations, Roland!

Must feel wunderbar!!!

@rocky posted:

Congratulations, Roland!

Must feel wunderbar!!!

Still have electric on my dance card..🤨

That’s the easy part!

Probably why you saved it for last!

Hmm

Great day today… isn’t it….

fixed a few more wires, and decided to take the dimmer switch apart…

if you look closely you see that the wire is broken…  fixed that and cleaned and greased the switch… put everything back together and… everything is working… 0 to 35.4 Ohm

and 17 seconds after that glorious moment Larry came by…

what a fabulous day

Now I go for my electric stuff I am adding..,,

hooking up the power steering, second set of headlights, new ignition switch, starter button etc. etc……

Guys.....where is the coat hanger engineering team here!!!?????   You can EASILY check for closed/open chamber heads with a danged piece of coat hanger, or if you prefer more hitech, welding rod......

Bend it to some shape that you can get in the spark plug hole and get it back up on the head chamber surface.  Piston down in the bore would help....

Then you move the coat hanger etc in and out and feel for the contour of the chamber....is it flat then suddenly drops off, or vice versa....  or does it just seem sorta "the same" all the way in and out.........

Your cylinder head dates will also give you back up....in the event that you have a valve cover off.....   A 73-74 head will be open chamber.    I don't think I've ever seen anything refute that in any of the "How to....SBF" books....

We know that 71's will be closed chambers as the engines are (supposed to be) 351CJ Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane/Comet engines.     72 can get a bit iffy.....with some of the early cars potentially getting closed camber and later cars the open.....but with DeT's perhap lack of order.....it could be a crap shoot.

If you have your little aluminum tag on the intake somewhere with the engine code on it, you can look that up in the FORD MPC (Master Parts Catalog) for the type of engine it is......  I believe that I and perhaps others have posted pictures of that particular page or two.

Don't work so hard!

Steve