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I am in assembly mode of a 351c that is using an arao engineering 32valve head setup (4 valve per cyinder that is beefed up for HIGH rpm (9000rpm+) similar to Yates ports (roller setup) Billet Alum. Hemi head (plugs from top thru valve cover)

Valve cover are like old Motorsports, they
bolt to head right thru valve cover and in turn stiffens entire valve train...

I had special ross pistons made w/ 4 valve relief (dome top) creating 10.75:1 compress.

Manley raceing valves will rounded bottoms NOT flat on bottom of valve (single groove)
bronze guides

Double springs (custom tension)

Cloyes raceing timeimg chain for Mike
Fielders of Austraila

Cross Ram intake w/ 8 individual runners and direct port injection (not throotle bodies)
(also for Mike Fielder's) (custom) polished aluminium

Two brushed aluminium plenuem box's are being contructed to fit over each side of 4 runners th box will contain a K&N air filter and also be used as pressuration box's for the (ram air) elephant ear's to be ducted to...

I'm going to use a F.A.S.T. fuel injection system on my pantera... (over haltech etc...)

The F.A.S.T. computer has what's called a wide band oxygen sensor... so not only will it adjust computer settings between 0-2000rpm but will adjust 0-10,000rpm.... it also can do sequential fuel injection NOT (bank to bank) or (batch fire). Plus it has an EDIST which will allow me to go distributorless and go coil on plug controller by computer...the coil on plug will NOT be wasted spark...we are using aftermarket coil packs (hotter)...
We are also putting on a 4 segment crank trigger to advance timing... but may use a stub shaft in the distributor hole...
Computer will also have an Iyac (misspelled)
but anyway thru the use of 8 individual vaccum tubes it will read manifold vaccum and adjust idle accordingly automaticly thru computer... (better smoother idle)
stoch. ratio adjustments all adjust by labtop

Obviously I will use top of the line plug wires (custom made) hemi style boot
and good plug's Boosch platinium 4 (maybe)

all fuel lines will be ran new and aeromotive fuel pumps and filters etc...

The block has oiling mods on it and is a four bolt main... it's an old HO block which was picked up as a left over from a ford race program... It is bored .035 over (block has been ultrasounded and still in great condition plently of meat(yes .035 on a clevland NOT windsor) speacial HO block also has a higher nickel content in metal...

Roller Cam specs have been developed on a cumputer using desk top dyno for max HP and torque. (800+hp 800+ftlbs torque @ 6500 rpm)
(about 300+hp 400ft lbs torque @ 2000rpm)

Avaid 10 quart oil pan with 4 gates for track racing and baffles plus a crank scrapper

Melling HV oil pump

Red line oil will probably be used

Water oil cooler (fluidyne)(to be mounted in rear passenger wheel well)

Edelbrock victor series water pump (alum)

Laydown fluidyne radiator w/ 2 temp sensors that will be automatied and tied into the
192 degree water temp sensor in block...
this system will be connected to 2 permafrost cooling fans that will be setup to come on upon temperature rise, then a second fan to turn on upon the temp nearing 192 degree's (probably at 180 degree's)
the order of which fan will come on first will be automatically decided by which fan has less run time on it... this will allow for even wear over this cascading fan system.

A Revson front air scoop has been added and 2 hood louvers. to allow max air flow

Water wetter will be added...
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The end of my message actually got cutoff somehow in my copy paste... but I'll retype it... but first thanks for all the nice remarks left for my setup.... And yes pic's will be made available ASAP....


I used a Hall body/frame stiffening kit for both the front and rear upper/lower...

The transaxle (ZF-2) 5 speed I took it completely apart cleaned it and had the ring and pinion lock wired in racing fashion then put back together but only after I powder coated the indivual parts of the case...

The rear suspension was removed...
the A-arms were sandblasted and springs were sandblasted the powdercoated high gloss black
The shocks were clean and reused(in good shape)(KONI'S)
Control arms were painted high temp black after cleaned...

The Half Shaft's were sandblasted and powdercoated too...

Brakes disassembled, clean powder coated and reassembling now...(they are stock) I will upgrade to either stoptech 4 piston or willwood 6 piston brakes next year.. I hope..

Entire engine bay was ground down, stripped, and spray high gloss black.
the fire wall is being coated with a sound deading matte and the cover w/ a polished stainless steel sheet.(mirror like)

Valve cover's are powder coated to match car paint skeem... engine is painted high temp high gloss black...

I got Hall Big bore heads w/ ceramic coating
and Hall big bore exhaust system (which is nothing more then a 2 Y's and 4 Cherry Bomb's with four 4" exhaust outlet's (crome ends)

Polished stainless steel water bottle added..

New weld on Zues fitting in rear hatch...

Center console rimproved w/ new Hall console add on..has clock and extra gauge slot plus relocated cigarette lighter...

new seats from mustangs plus... leather and sliders work great... fits but needed the drilling of new holes...

I removed the carpets put down Gempler's rust converter from farm equipment... painted over that with rust-olem high gloss black... then
glued down sound deading mat w/ aluminium heat backing. patch peices in with 4" aluminium tape...

The interior fire wall was coverd with Gempler's rust converter from farm equipment
painted over that with rust-olem high gloss black then glued down sound deading mat w/ aluminium heat backing. patch peices in with 4" aluminium tape...

A double pane rear window glass is being installed. it should reject 2 decibels on it's own.

New rocker panels were installed (outers,inners, and center's)and sealed on ends to not let in water etc...

The door's will soon be lined with dynamat door sound deading to give it that nice solid thud when you shut the door(no rattle)...

Hall's ventilation kit is being installed in the door's and new crome striker and sill plates are ready to install...

Hall removeable steering wheel has been added for easy getting in and out...

I Will install new "standard fuse" fuse box tonight it is custom made and will be a direct replacement to stock fuse box....

Rims are aftermarket 15" crome on front;
17" crome on rear...

A new paint job of Ferrari Red w/ High gloss Black trim and High gloss Black around bottom of vehicle.


Is there anything out there still to be done; does anyone have any suggestions or recondmendations on what else to do or change?
I'm always looking to improve....

If anyone has any questions on where I got any of the parts I metion in the above text(s) just ask... I do my best to help...
Holly sheeeit............Wicked!
Dont forget to ensure you fill the ZF with the right QUANTITY of oil,- waiting long enough for the oil to settle fully in the now, upside-down casing-cavities. The oil Over-Full inspection hole will run over quite soon,only to drain away later, hopefully not after you have closed it up. Count your cans of oil to make sure ALL the oil goes in....
Look forward to the pics. Enjoy.
Sounds nice Loco. I would have added a solid block to the $100,000 you've already spent, though. A stock 351-C has cylinder walls too thin to handle the thrust loads you'll get at 9K rpms. Since you sonic-tested the block before boring, if the test did NOT show 0.200" wall thickness everywhere after boring, and the # 2,3 & 4 upper main bearing webs were not filled in as-cast in that block, I would not run close to lean at any time. These were the two main weak spots found back in the '70s in NASCAR & drag racing. Bob Glidden furnace-brazed sleeves in all his blocks to beat the wall thickness problems, but he never did solve the main web cracking, nor did Jack Roush. It took a 'factory" X-series block to do both (which eventually became the so-called 'Aussie' blocks) but by that time everyone had gone to the big-blocks for dependable power. I'm really interested in your dyno results- the ARAO heads are pushrod types and IMHO the only pushrod engines that ran up in the 9K range successfully (for more than a second or two) were the Ilmor/Mercedes engines w/2" pushrods built for Penske & his early '90s Indy-cars, and a few of the $75,000+ Winston Cup engines used in short-track racing. Good luck.
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