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I have a 2 roll 1" aluminum rad. with spal dul 12" sucker fans in pre-made shroud that covers the rad. After the fans turn on at 200 the temp will come up to around 210 and stay there all day. but if you hot rod the car the temp slowly goes higher. I can drive 100 mile or idle for hours. Check this on the way home the fan fuse broke, and the car overheated going down the highway. is the air flow the problem in both cases? And why is air flow a problem? I have the rad seald fr. the rear on the sides and top. It sets on the factory brackes on the bottom and the top is laying down around 65 deg. what can I try?
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I have re-wired new relays for the fans. the fuse broke due to a oversight, but I got that fixed. both fans come on together at 200 and turn off at 185. I have a 190 thermostat ( yates heads, so water comes out the fr. of both heads. and go into a pre-made Y, with my thermostat in it ) If the fans are on the car will run warm but not overheat. I did move the air condencer to the fr but I have not charged the system yet. the only thing I can think of is the condencer is in the way of clean air OR the air is rolling off the rad. down and under the car, not going thru the rad. thing of removeing the condencer to see what changes but that is a big job in my car. yes at 80 mph the car will overheat but turn on the fans and the temp goes down. what am I missing?
A 2-row 1" thick core radiator (either aluminum or brass) sounds kind of thin for a 300 horse engine. Thats the size drag racers use to cut front end weight. Leaning it fwd makes no difference in cooling and the shrouded sucker fans are fine. Assuming that everything else is OK including no air in the system, I'd look at roughly doubling the core thickness. FYI, my car ran to 'Vegas last year at 195-200 degrees with a 190 thermostat. Then I changed it to a 160 thermostat for the 550 mile drive home- at 195-200 degrees. Bottom line- the thermostat point-of-opening does NOT lower the engine temp, at least in my Pantera.
I have a aftr-market temp switch on the fans, and part of my problem is over 500hp plus motor. yes I know you have herd that before but it is that strong. I was told that a dual 1" is better than a four 1/2" roll rad. I was told that if you get the rad to thick air will not flow thru. But I dont bild rad. I wire cars for a living. I just can not figure out why the fans can keep the car warm, but driving thru the air will not? I know you have to bild a air box. But the bottom of a stock pantera is the bottom of the rad. can this be my problem? I drove by a radiator shop. he told eveything looks fine on the car. and I will never get that kind of power cool in this car.. I can not live with that. IF you have a ideal I can try please call (405) 850-3050 Todd....
The radiator shops work on hondas and dont think out side the box.
Thanks All
I may have misunderstood you. I'm also not a radiator engineer, but based on experience at this time, seemingly the best radiator for Panteras is the aluminum Fluidyne sold by all the Pantera vendors as a bolt-in. A shrouded dual sucker fan setup by Flexilite that pulls 2500 cfm of air, mounted on the back is available. The transfer tubes in this radiator are 1" wide for more water flow & heat transfer; dunno how many rows. Laying the rad fwd makes working on the back easier but does nothing for cooling. This rad is used by many Pantera racers and at least one 510-inch big-block that was driven from LA to 'Vegas, track-raced and driven home, all with no overheating. At low speeds, what the fans must do is create a 25 mph breeze thru the whole core; less airflow= overheating in slow traffic. If you have this setup and still overheat, there is some other problem besides the radiator, such as too much ignition advance, causing excess heat.
Thanks, I just talk to the dudes at fluidyne. that is a 3 roll, I have a 2 roll.
this may be way if just wont keep up with the horse power I have. also did testing to day. hood on and off. radiator laying down and up. air condencer and no air condencer. standing up-condencer made a small dif. laying down-condencer made it overheat. standing up, no condencer- got better..
removed hood (have no vents) small change. so if you lay the radiator down make shure the fans work good they are doing the work (on a stock body car) going to a 3 roll in my P-car. anyone want a almost new 2 roll 1" each aluminum radiator? Thnks for all the advice. #3620
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