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As silly as this sounds, after I rebuilt (bushings, ball joints, shocks, extended rear upper a-arms etc.) my suspension, I used an straight edge (against rotors), a ruler and my iPhone's built-in level. I got everything where I figured was pretty close to spec (after a bit of adjustments to get the perfect ride height) and headed off to my alignment shop. Turns out I was a total of 1/2 degree off on my toe-in and my passenger rear upright was off by 1/10 of a degree (yes, a tenth). That was it. The rest was perfect. It frankly could not have been simpler, or much more accurate either, as it turned out.

Husker, for setting toe you can also try the "Chalk, nail and measuring tape method".

Step 1: Jack up the front of your car, get the wheels straight, take a piece of chalky (kiddy chalk like the stuff they use on the sidewalk or chalk board). Spin the wheel/tire(you'll need a helper) and rub the chalk on the center of the tire...get a good solid line of chalk (1/4th of an inch wide)all the way around the tire.

Step 2: Take a nail, spin the tire, and just hold the nail very steady in the center of the chalk line on the tire and scribe a line all the way around the tire while it is spinning. Do both sides. Now you have a line to do some measurements on.

Step 3: Put the car down on the ground and take a measuring tape to the front and rear of the tire up closest to the bottom of the car and measure the nail scribe line(you'll need a helper). If the measurement in the front is larger than in the rear, you are toed out...if the measurement is smaller in the front than the rear you are toed in.

That will get your toe alignment close.
Last edited by tomsealbeach
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