Another engine building topic !

The biggest factor is going to be the timing events on the cam. Without that, it's not possible to predict anything.

Tuning Will be another adventure ...
I'm asking for the main components to think about...
What for an oil pump ?
Thanks

You should read through this....

Sticky #3

With regard to oil pumps, most will suggest you run a standard 351C pump (a Melling 84A, IIRC is one such model).

High Volume or High pressure pumps merely rob power, with little gain. Once you start talking about oiling, you will get lots of discussion on lifter bore bushings, etc.

The pump can be "ported" to improve flow, and a minor increase in pressure can be achieved by inserting a nickel (in your case a 10 Franc piece ) under the pressure relief spring.

Good luck with the build! There is LOTS of info here on engine builds - Search is your friend.

A word of caution.... You will get a lot of advice that seems conflicting sometimes. So think hard about everything people tell you, but ultimately, you have to choose who is "the rightest" for you own personal circumstances (engine build goals and budget).

Rocky

hello
Engine preparation has begun !

Here's what they made :

the oil pan was baffled, oil pickup redone, and a kind of metal part bolted with the main caps...

what dou you think about it ?

It'll be replaced by an aviaid racing pan.

I'll show the ditribution parts soon
regards
Philippe
All advices are welcome









that thing is heavy !

here's the crank assembly,



a new custom grind from Brent Lykins Motorsport



woul you tell me more about this oil pump ?
Regards

The pump itself looks like a Melling 84A (Standard Cleveland Pump) with an extended pickup (to me)....

Rocky

sure looks like ' ARD ' on the crank casting code

that's Australian, I wonder what else?

thanks

I'll keep it

Philippe

The Avid oil pan comes with a scraper, baffles, and a pick up, that replaces the stock pick up.
make sure your pick up is between 3/8 and 1/2 off the bottom of the pan.

quote:

Originally posted by pantera chris:
The Avid oil pan comes with a scraper, baffles, and a pick up, that replaces the stock pick up.
make sure your pick up is between 3/8 and 1/2 off the bottom of the pan.

Thanks Chris
Yes there's the pick up device in the Aviaid box (I forgot )
I'll check the height you gave me.

Hello !

I've just completed the rocker adjustments ...
Let me know if I'm wrong :

solid lifters + crane 1.73 "gold" rocker arms ...

Set engine on TDC cyl 1 (firing) > then I'm setting valve gap at 0.003 (0.08 mm) (tight)

the same according to ignition sequence after.

This is the procedure on a regular engine.
What about that ?

regards
Philippe

what does the cam card give for valve lash?

solid lifters you add .002" or .003" to the hot lash if setting cold

Thanks 4V

Finally got the valve lash
Intake : 0.018
Exhaust : 0.02

Philippe, don't know if you are already familiar with the procedure? But be damn sure you have oil flowing to all 16 Rockers by Priming the Oil Pump prior to closing the Top. Pump runs counter clockwise and you can get the Tool or use a 1/4" Socket with an extension. Before you close it when you have assured free flow poor 1/2L Oil over the Valve Train on either side.

And use low viscosity Mineral Oil in your fresh rebuild Engine like 10W-40 or 5W-30 with the additive for your Flat Tappet Cam.

Sorry if you already knew!

Goodroc.

Thanks, I'm not familiar with the Cleveland, but with racing engines.
I'll ask maybe for some particular procedures...
Thanks for your advices
Philippe

goodroc is right,priming prior to start up very important, also make sure your valve train geometry is correct, I am assuming you are not using a stock push rod?

Chris
That makes sense to prime an engine without ignition
That engine came with the car, rebuilt as far as I know and see...
Don't know about the push rods, is it a matter of lenght ? They are chromolly steel, ball end, oil center hole
Philippe

Philippe, not only to prime the Engine without Ignition. BUT actually priming it by turning the Pump without turning the Engine. This way you are able also to verify the critical oil flow to the Valve Train. Dont you have a Book for the 351C that explains all these little things?

Another thing that is critical is that you choose the correct lenght of your Push Rods. They are sold with in increments of 0,1" or perhaps even less I dont remember right now. There is a procedure to select the correct length so that your Valve Train does not fail. All these things are more critical than you might think and they will decrease your risk of failure.

Best
Jan.

Philippe, Look for PM with info from Crane Cams on your rocker assemblies.