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Hello All

Since I've received my engine stand
I'm ready to operate !

I bought #2902 in 2012 fitted with an upgraded stock 351 CI engine, The cam was way to agressive, that it couldn't work !

Here's what I have now, the car wil be a gr4 replica car ...

-351ci block, with a custom camshaft from Brent Lykins (target 3500-6500 power band)
-Quickfuel race carb
-Dominator intake,
-180° headers,
-custom dizzy with MSD capacitor ignition,
-10/1 CR, crane (gold colour plated)rocker arms,
-Pioneer race balancer (adviced on it)...
-Aviaid baffled oil pan.
-alu high flow water pump
-lightweight hi-torque starter
I will not use dry sump oiling,

I'm listening and welcoming all advices
Pictures will follow during engine build.

thanks !


Philippe
Original Post

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You should read through this....

Sticky #3

With regard to oil pumps, most will suggest you run a standard 351C pump (a Melling 84A, IIRC is one such model).

High Volume or High pressure pumps merely rob power, with little gain. Once you start talking about oiling, you will get lots of discussion on lifter bore bushings, etc.

The pump can be "ported" to improve flow, and a minor increase in pressure can be achieved by inserting a nickel (in your case a 10 Franc piece Cool ) under the pressure relief spring.

Good luck with the build! There is LOTS of info here on engine builds - Search is your friend.

A word of caution.... You will get a lot of advice that seems conflicting sometimes. So think hard about everything people tell you, but ultimately, you have to choose who is "the rightest" for you own personal circumstances (engine build goals and budget).

Rocky
Hello !

I've just completed the rocker adjustments ...
Let me know if I'm wrong :

solid lifters + crane 1.73 "gold" rocker arms ...

Set engine on TDC cyl 1 (firing) > then I'm setting valve gap at 0.003 (0.08 mm) (tight)

the same according to ignition sequence after.

This is the procedure on a regular engine.
What about that ?

regards
Philippe
Philippe, don't know if you are already familiar with the procedure? But be damn sure you have oil flowing to all 16 Rockers by Priming the Oil Pump prior to closing the Top. Pump runs counter clockwise and you can get the Tool or use a 1/4" Socket with an extension. Before you close it when you have assured free flow poor 1/2L Oil over the Valve Train on either side.

And use low viscosity Mineral Oil in your fresh rebuild Engine like 10W-40 or 5W-30 with the additive for your Flat Tappet Cam.

Sorry if you already knew!
Philippe, not only to prime the Engine without Ignition. BUT actually priming it by turning the Pump without turning the Engine. This way you are able also to verify the critical oil flow to the Valve Train. Dont you have a Book for the 351C that explains all these little things?

Another thing that is critical is that you choose the correct lenght of your Push Rods. They are sold with in increments of 0,1" or perhaps even less I dont remember right now. There is a procedure to select the correct length so that your Valve Train does not fail. All these things are more critical than you might think and they will decrease your risk of failure.

Best
Jan.

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