Bell housing

I am THINKING there are two internal bolts that may or not be there. I would think replacing them with dowel studs would allow removal,leaving the bell housing in place

You can not get it off the bellhousing with those two allen heads in there.

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studs would allow removal,leaving the bell housing in place

That's what I did, mainly for alignment purposes.

I always back up carefully.

Rocky

What size are those 2 inner allen head bolts? I mean, what size hex, not dimensions and thread

Size 8 METRIC

Pulling the trany with the bell housing attached is fairly straight forward, why separate them?
I think the two lower allen head bolts are part of the structural integrity of the assembly. How long have you been using just the dowels?

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How long have you been using just the dowels?

I omitted those two bolts years and 1000's of miles ago and have never noticed any issues.

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by pantera chris:
Pulling the trany with the bell housing attached is fairly straight forward, why separate them?
I think the two lower allen head bolts are part of the structural integrity of the assembly. How long have you been using just the dowels?

I have 180's and am trying to get to the clutch with removing the headers. I may be able to weasel the zf out if I separate them

What is the Redline oil that is to be used for our ZF's?

Y'all DO realize that the foregoing discussion only applies to the late die-cast bellhousing with one vent hole? The early sand-cast bellhousing with two vent holes (mostly on pushbuttons) did not have those allen bolts. They were added by ZF at Ford's insistence to stiffen up the powertrain, at the same time as the dual tranny mounts in back (added for the same reason).

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Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
What is the Redline oil that is to be used for our ZF's?

Redline Heavy Shockproof.

Thanks for the info, surprised about not needing the bolts, but not surprised by Fords better idea about stiffening things up. I also have 180's and can understand why you want to avoid the hassell of removing your headers, pulling mine take the better part of the day.

I use Redline MT90. It's a 75W-90 GL4 and the closest thing you'll find to the manufacturer recommended gear oil, in a synthetic.