Block Heater Inlet

I am sad to say that this is a not fun job even with a bare block on an engine stand.

there is no opening of that heater tube into any portion of the water pump housing.

yes the tube is pressed in and they are famous for doing what yours has done. With a bare block I understand it can be tapped to accept a steel/brass pipe nipple but that is something certainly best done on a bare block project where metal shavings can be properly dealt with.

The ones I have removed have been on bare blocks so I have no knowledge of what the best approach might be to capture the inevitable pieces of metal the process will result in.

sorry I can’t deliver some wonderful news.😕

hopefully someone else will post their magic solution to make your task easier.

Good luck,

Larry

As Larry said, there is no magic solution. As was posted a while back: grab it with a vice grips (it will collapse, but that's ok) and pry it out with a crow bar. Not so easy with the engine installed. Its a thin wall tube so it comes apart "relatively" easily. I tapped mine and installed a SS barbed fitting.

Thanks. You know just once I would like to see a response like , “oh that, no problem. Should take you 5 minutes”.  😬

All kidding aside I appreciate the quick and informative responses as always. I think since this isn’t leaking (yet) I will see if this can hold until I have the engine rebuilt. I am concerned about it breaking apart and pieces getting into the engine with the extraction.

Shashi

I have read about people basically ripping out a piece at a time with the engine installed with no adverse effects.

...I Concur with Husker, There is No problem here. Take a Vise Grip, with 'Rounded Jaws', crush the rusted tube to Collapse it. Twist and Turn, as You pull it out. Very few pieces will drop in. Because it is rusted thin, it doesn't take a lot of force to crush it out. A Shot of WD-40 wouldn't Hurt. Even Soak it over-night. It will Help Break-Up the Rust.

You can find a new tube at the NAPA Auto Parts Store.

Good Luck with it.

MJ

smal magnetic tool helps to get the drop ins out. My did brickel in parts ..tool required to get stuff out

Awesome. I will try it this weekend. Thanks, again.

If you haven't crushed whats left of the tube already, you may be able to find a socket that will just slip inside, then grab with round jawed vise grips and wriggle it out whole. Provides some more support to the tube.

If that doesn't work, use MJ's option and crush the tube and dig it out in pieces.

Woow Larry good point, well mine got replaced but it broke and some parts got stuck inside hence the magnetic tool to "grab" the small parts. but your approache will prevent this def.

nice !

..."CRUSH the rusted TUBE to COLLAPSE it. TWIST and TURN, as You PULL IT OUT!" The CRUSHING of IT, LOOSENS IT! Did Not Break it up, In My Case, It came out in One Piece. MJ

Larry, Using a socket to support the walls of the tube was genius. It took me less than 5 minutes to clamp the vise, wiggle it, tap with a hammer, and get the tube out in its entirety. Thanks!

Not really necessary to tap the hole; internal water pressure is less than 20 psi.  I stuck a pipe inside the stocker, clamped it with ViceGrip pliers and pried it out. Then made up a stainless steel pipe that was the same dimension & hammered it back in. In 1982.... lifetime fix