Brake cap/braking issues

The little hole is to let air in as the pads wear so you don't get a vacuum in the reservoir. I sounds like you may still have air in the system.

Air wouldn't get sucked into the lines unless the reservoir went dry. When you put new pads on you pushed the pistons back into the cups, and forced fluid back into the reservoir which squirted out the cap hole on to your hood.

Thanks, I will try to bleed again. I am not happy with the pedal feel at all.

Do you still have the shuttle valve on the front trunk floor? How do you bleed your brakes, the old pedal method?  Just check that the shuttle valve has not activated.

See some brake discussion here;

https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/brake-schematic

Yes the shuttle valve is still in place and we bled by pumping the pedal. I will look into that. Thank you for the link. If it is completely removed what is put in its place? I would rather not do new brake lines under the hood right now.

I wouldn't remove it personally, but just check it hasn't triggered and need resetting with the bleed action.

Joules I have found the original part number D2za-2b257-aa and a rebuild kit. Is there a simple way to test it before taking it all apart? Sorry for all the questions this one is new to me.

I went through this same issue with the shuttle valve when bleeding my brakes. I also had the Ford part # but could not find a direct replacement (most that look similar are for disc/drum cars). I also purchased the "rebuild kit" from MuscleCar Research which did not solve the problem. I even sent my shuttle valve to the owner of MuscleCar Research which he rebuilt for a fee and it still didn't work correctly. After talking to Scott Bell of SACC Restorations, I removed the shuttle valve and replaced it with a T - Problem fixed and the only downside is i won't get a light if brake pressure is low but if that happens you'll figure it out quickly. Scott is very knowledgeable and helpful so if you need to buy anything for Pantera brakes, he'd be my first call

Interesting, yes the rebuild kit I found was from MuscleCar Research. Did you have to change any flares or tubing to work for the Tee? Do you have a picture of your application?

Don't waste your time attempting to rebuild with the MuscleCar Research kit. For the same money and less aggravation, you can plumb in the T and do away with the shuttle valve. You will have to flare one or two lines but in the end, that is a lot easier and faster than messing with the shuttle valve.  Here is a pic of the set up with the T replacing the shuttle valve. I have since fabricated a small aluminum bracket that bolts to the trunk floor in the original holes and is threaded so the T can be screwed down to the aluminum

That looks nice and clean, good job. What did you use for your T ? I am going to bleed the system again and if things don't improve I may try this. Thanks

when i was having my "issues" Scott Bell of SACC Restorations was kind enough to provide a list of the items needed to convert to the T.  Here is the list: 

Brass Union - 5/16" Line - Both Sides Female SAE 1/2" X 20 Thread - Inverted Flare - Pack of 10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...VLMSTCBS13&psc=1

 Earl's 972055ERL Brake Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...;smid=A1FJ1WMPKJVUMQ

 Brake Light Switch with 3/8 Inch IFM Adapter Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...;smid=A1FJ1WMPKJVUMQ

This is all you need along with a slight amount of bending the existing brake lines and maybe one or two new flares

Wow, excellent info! Much appreciated if I have to go this route.