While I am replacing the calipers and rotors I have been mulling whether I should replace the hard lines. For those that completed the project was it relatively easy, or did it require removing major items (e.g. engine)? At 45 years old I am just concerned the lines can’t be in great shape but I may be projecting my wear and tear on the car as we are around the same age. I could attempt to bend them myself or buy the prebent SS kit from Summit Racing. She isn’t getting driven for the next few months with winter upon us. I guess same goes for the brake booster/m/c as they all appear original. I am not trying to throw away money but it is the brakes system. Thanks. Shashi
I would clean the lines as good as possible with scotchbrite. If there's no pitting, and the ends are in good shape, leave alone.
IMHO, the most critical line and arguably the most suceptible to corrosion is the connecting line between the two front brakes. First because about 65% of your stopping force comes from the two front brakes and a leak or blow-out will rob you of that much stopping force, and second- because the line in question runs behind the battery up in the front trunk and is poorly protected (by only a loose piece of shrink tubing).
THe job is complicated a bit by the stock tubing being metric so it does not fit U.S- made flairing tools. Wrapping the tube with a piece of shim stock allows it to fit without slipping. Cut up a beer can for the shim stock.
If you plan on replacing the brake lines, I would suggest you use copper/ nickel brake tubing. it never rusts and is very easy to bend. Many European cars now use this material.
Thanks for you feedback. Still on the fence at this point but great info to know.
I replaced all of them via copper/nickel brake tubing. With a special tool the ends are "bend". Also a tool for bending the tubes themselfs helps. Need a bit of practice. Also a small tube cutter is required.
Most cumbersome is the tubeing at the brake main cylinder area, as you need serveral shorter heavily bend tubes. No space to goove. I did them by help of a vise and a steel tube of adequate diameter. Also the end of the one tube inside the motor area at the corner is hard to do as very narrow loop. It did work but was time consuming. Also you need a correct tool for the fittings as they are brass, an "open" ring wrench. The fittings most of them I replaced, issue there are different sizes to them. so you need to check.
So I decided to move ahead with replacing the brake lines. Understanding working on things in this car (and any car really) lead to another I just went with the preformed SS lines. I pulled the brake booster and master cylinder and will be replacing the carpet, grommets, and perishables in the process. I asked around about rebuilding the existing booster and was told that some of the parts are unobtainium so either clean up the one I have and leave alone or replace with an updated unit.
I really like the clean setup of the SACC unit but it looks like it deletes the booster and a bit pricey relative to other vendor replacements. I’m sure it is great as I have been impressed with all of Scott’s products but compromises must be made! Plus I need to buy the power steering unit down the line. 😬
The rubber diaphragm for the brake MC is now available. Just had mine rebuilt in Italy.
Good to know. Bendix-Italia stopped selling brake parts in the '80s for the Pantera (also fits the 308-series Ferrari), when someone bought an overhaul kit for brakes, exceeded his skill level in assembling the thing and crashed the result. He (or his heirs) sued Bendix-Italia who instantly stopped selling parts; only complete new assemblies up 'till now. Maybe a Statute of Limitations somewhere expired?
I like ss brake lines for Panteras; they do not corrode ever and only need single flaring; matter of fact, I'm told that double flares are unnecessary and usually cannot be successfully done. This simplifies the creation of the lines. Good luck-