Brake Wear Sensor (1974 Pantera)

...Khan, all I can tell You is what I did! The wires that came on the Original Pads, of My 74L; 'Unplugged' at the exit point near the inner fender. When I did replace the Pads I chose to cut the wires off the New ones, and tie the lead up secure. I just didn't care to have some idiot light to tell Me when the pads were going too thin. If I were You I would just clip the wire and splice in the new. Maybe soulder it (or use 'crimp (solderless) terminals' and create a New Male/Female Plug) and don't forget to use some 'Shrink Tubing' around the splice, to help keep the Moisture out. The New 'Correct' pads will come with Wires attached. By the way, You have a Very Fine Example of a Cobra! Outstanding SheetMetal Work! You are Truly Skilled!!...

Thanks marlin jack. My new pads didn't come with new sensors. I also don't want an idiot light on all the time. Where can I get correct pads as I ordered for a good vendor that shall remain nameless.

...I don't have an idea where You may find Original Front Pads WITH the wires. You'll have to 'Call Around', a Lot. One of the Vendors may have them. I have seen them on 'Ebay Motors' on RARE occasion, but that isn't going to be much help for You. You Misunderstood about the idiot light! That light ONLY comes on When the pad wears down thin enough for the wire to 'Ground Out' on the Rotor, activating the relay for the Light(or is There NO Relay and the Light Grounds Directly?). Now, The question might be; 'How Reliable of a 'Ground' can the Rotor provide coming Through the Bearings??'...

good point on the ground and the light. Was mixed up. Just trying to "restore" the vehicle to it's original glory. It is a 11,000 one owner survivor that I am trying to keep as original as possible. Who knows, that might be impossible. THank you for your input.

Khan,

As Marlin says trace the wires back to their junction. If you want to keep it as original as possible, why change pads, those appear to have plenty of meat left on them?

I think you have to special order pads with the sensors embedded.

Julian

Julian

The problem is that the calipers need to be removed from the car for replacing or rebuilding, and the only way to do this is to disconnect the sensor wire either by finding the splice or cutting the wire.

John

quote:

Where can I get correct pads

While I do applaud your desire for 'correct' pads, safety should be of some concern here.

The stock pads are not known for their great performance.

Many of us have upgraded to Porterfield R4S compound pads. They will fit your stock calipers just fine.

If stock is your only acceptable answer, I'd call all the vendors and keep an eye on eBay.

But what is your motivation for replacing the pads you now have, which from your photo seem to have more than enough material left for safe use?

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by Joules5:
Khan,

why change pads, those appear to have plenty of meat left on them?


Julian

You are quite right. Great suggestion

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:

quote:

Where can I get correct pads

While I do applaud your desire for 'correct' pads, safety should be of some concern here.

The stock pads are not known for their great performance.

Many of us have upgraded to Porterfield R4S compound pads. They will fit your stock calipers just fine.

If stock is your only acceptable answer, I'd call all the vendors and keep an eye on eBay.

But what is your motivation for replacing the pads you now have, which from your photo seem to have more than enough material left for safe use?

Larry

I had new pads on hand so I thought; why not? But you are right; the old have lots of life.

As for the concern of performance; I won't be driving this car hard. That is what the Cobra is for This is my date night car with the wife.

AT first thought, i thought your brake pads might be glazed , reducing friction, mine were. But your pads are rough and uneven, replace them. You might need to turn you rotors.If you want sensor wires on your pads you will need NOS brake pads, monitor E Bay thats where i found mine. Chuck

Thank you for all the great pointers and tips. I really appreciate all your help. We'll get this cat on the road soon!

Kahn,

DO NOT use your original pads, even though they look like they still have lots of material. My original pads had so much material left that they looked like they had never been used; and that was after 90,000 miles! But, they didn't stop worth a damn, especially when cold! I almost wrecked my car early one morning because someone changed lanes in front of me on the expressway then slammed on their brakes for a yellow light. I stood on my brakes as hard as I could and was certain the front of my car was going to get crunched. I must have stopped less than an inch from his bumper because it looked like I should have hit him.

Get the Porterfield pads (4RS) and know your car will stop with confidence - it's a safety thing! Besides, the idiot light on the dash also doubles as the fan-on indicator for your heater/AC, so it's still usable for that function.

Khan, I second what Garth66 says. I did a total resto of my 74. I pulled it out of the drivewayfor my first drive, went down the street, and right thru a stop sign. I was just damned lucky nobody was coming. Ive got a set of brand new stock pads at home with less than 200 miles on them if you want them, but trust me, you dont. I got a set of the Porterfields and have complete confidence in my braking system now. They are the way to go.

Thank you so much again for all the feedback. I do have new pads.

My refurb calipers cane with pads but I can't tell if they are new. I went ahead and ordered the porterfield pads. Thanks for the advice


@Marlin: I did not do any metal work on the cobra. It is a fiberglass kit. Like putting together a full scale model!