Changing oil pick-up

Second photo

Armando´s oil pick-up

What happened to that oil pick-up. Looks like someone has a big dislike for it an has decided to punish it with a hammer. LOL

What do you mean by test into the pantera? Do you mean run the engine etc? I wouldn't do that. Its easier to install it on an engine run stand or better yet an engine dyno. The only reason I can guess you are doing this is that you are unsure about the condition of the engine. If that is the case it may be better to further disassemble the engine to investigate. Shucks you already have it out of the car...

could that be the "shot at" Elvis engine ?

Hi, Kimmosche. The stock round-end oil pump pickup will not fit the tight clearances in the Armando pan's baffles. The correct pickup is rectangular to fit and has a bracket that braces it from vibration damage. They screw into the pump body, usually without tools needed. While you're at it, completely remove the oil pump and take off it's steel-plate cover. Inside will be a 'gear-and-rotor' pump. Look closely at the gear and rotor surfaces, and the sides of the chamber they run in. If they are at all scarred up, each scar will drop oil pressure measurably. New standard replacement pumps are cheap. The comments on the pickup's beat-to-hell appearance suggest that engine (or at least that pump) was once involved in a catastrophic blow-up.

Next is the hexagonal oil pump driveshaft. Look closely at it: are the ends worn smooth rather than being rather sharp-edged, or if the hexagon sides are not perfectly straight but twisted, the stock mild-steel driveshaft is on its way to failure. Ford Racing, Moroso and many others sell a 4130-steel replacement for less than $20; cheap insurance that will then outlast any engine.

Note also, the driveshaft must be put in with the built-in washer facing the bottom of the block. This is to prevent the shaft, which also indexes into the base of the distributor and drives it, from being pulled up and out of the pump during distributor work. If the driveshaft is installed upside down and the distributor is subsequently removed, the shaft may fall into the pan....

I assume this Pantera already has a removeable rear crossmember and removeable e-brake bracket? If not and the engine is out, this is an ideal time to add such an upgrade. Pan removal is all but impossible without pulling the engine if the welded parts are retained. This was a factory upgrade in '75 and on many Euro Panteras sold '71-74 in other countries except the U.S. U.S vendors all carry the necessary replacements.

Hi, Bosswrench. Thanks for your answers, that was exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Just trying to make it sure that I won´t be making any simple but destructive mistakes when taking these parts apart. I don´t know the real history of my engine, but it had been put together with new parts just before I bought the car almost 4 years ago. And I drove it from Netherlands to Finland, so it was a working package. That engine is like my brother once said, it looks like two different persons had been working on it, the other one has been a careful guy with good parts and the other one has been more like a butcher. I have found also lots of other stuff made by a butcher while doing all the metalwork with the car. I do have Armando´s pick-up right here waiting, I just had some problems when trying to attach that photo, now trying again...

Italford, we will be testing the physical fitment of the engine, zf etc. into the engine bay. I have spent lots of time changing half of the old cracked & rusted steel into new steel or carbon from firewall to the rear, building roll bar and my own design new fire wall + rear window. The plan is not to test run the engine. The plan is to be able to finish all the metal work around it.

Another one

and another one