clutch not engaginging

2nd picture of throe out bearing. I read many of the subjects in the ZF forum and just working through the possibilities as I take it apart.
Glenn

It's the wrong clutch. The Pantera clutch does not have the counter weights on the end of the lever arms.

That is a clutch for a Mustang/Torino, etc.

The counter weights will hit the inside of the bell housing

You could take a cut off wheel and remove them but the presure plate will be a little out of balance.

Thanks Doug. Have pressure plate off, and clutch ... This is 11" and so is clutch, both not good. ring gear glazed as well. In short I need to get a set up....looking for input .... it is a D1--ZF what is the recommended set up and from who? I would likely order Monday...I am in Canada.

Here is the plate

I'm using the centerforce DF with good results so far. Light on the pedal too. Look at their web site they make one especially for the pantera.

Centerforce and McCleod both make a Pantera dedicated clutch.

The Centerforce is a 10-1/2. The McCleod is 11. You can get a Pantera clutch through any of the Pantera vendors. Shop around. Some are less expensive than others, but not my much. Maybe $50?

That doesn't matter much at all though.

The Centerforce is a little lighter on your leg. Both are good for around 800hp.

On your early car you could install the "reduced effort" clutch linkage under the dash. It does help reduce effort.

I really have no idea why your clutch is so screwed up? Probably a Chevy guy installed it. They think they know everything sometimes.

The Pantera clutch isn't rocket science at all but requires a little specialty knowledge. It doesn't take much effort to research but it does require some effort.

You might also want to consider changing the clutch slave cylinder at this time to the long throw unit. The good one is the stainless steel one that Pantera East had made and sells to the other vendors. Most of them carry it also for around $160.

http://inlandempire.craigslist.../pts/4500384763.html

Pantera specific clutch on Craigslist in Montclair CA.

The dash 1 ZF has a 1-1/8" x 10 spline.

The dash 2 ZF has a 1-1/16" x 10 spline.

Make sure that you get the correct clutch disc.

John

Put a message in to the craigslist tip...thanks...I hope it is the correct spline. I will replace the t/o bearing ... where is best for that? My flywheel is steel and needs resurfacing...or should I get a lightweight? I appreciate all the knowledge input as I need to get car back together to go on a drive and don't have a lot of time to research all the options well. I already have a new slave ..not long throw but new from pantera.

Glenn

As I recall the T/O bearing is the same as any truck or Ranchero that came with a 351c that was built in the early 70's. Just press it off and try and match it up at the parts store. I am sure someone else will correct me if I am wrong.

Summit lists both of them.

http://www.summitracing.com/se...antera%20clutch&ar=1

As far as the -1 being a 1-1/8" spline I wouldn't know. Not arguing but first I heard of it.

Measure the thing.

The only thing that could have done that to your clutch is it wasn't adjust correctly and they had it so it was not fully releasing and as a result would slip like that.

I would buy the throw out bearing offered by the clutch manufacturer. That way you know there will be no issues.

Also check the inside of the bellhouse to see if the counter weights were hitting inside.

It could explain why the clutch was never adjusted for full release, i.e., if it was, the counterweights would hit.

quote:

The Centerforce is a little lighter on your leg. Both are good for around 800hp

Centerforce has 2 clutches avail for the Pantera. One is only rated for 500hp.

The dual friction is considered good for about 800 by the "racers". I don't think CF ever claimed that though.

If I was going to recommend a clutch, that would be the one. It's not perfect but it has advantages over the others.

They are not fun to break in. They slip noticeably for quite a while. Some say 500 miles.

You will see the wear on the flywheel. It gets etched pretty good by the harder material of the pucks.

It's more annoying than anything else though. The car still will go. Don't get involved in any racing for money until it will lock up. Try not to bury the accelerator with it until broken in either. You will put hot spots on the pressure plate and the flywheel if you do.

I've run several of them. You just need to patient until they stop slipping.

quote:

As far as the -1 being a 1-1/8" spline I wouldn't know. Not arguing but first I heard of it.

Trust me, Doug.

John

Chances that the one on Craigslist is for a dash-1 are slim. Only about 5-600 panteras got them.

Both centerforce and Mcleod have a pantera specifik clutch for the dash-1 with the 1-1/8" x 10 spline.

Pantera performance in Colorado sell the McLeod with a diaphram pressure plate. I used it with my dash-1 and it was very light to operate even without the effort reduction kit installed. It needs an adjustable throw out bearing that they also carry.

Getting Mcleod clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing from Pantera Performance. Will re surface the flywheel and we should be good to Launch. Think I will get ZF cleaned and maybe polished while it is out.

Good choice with the Mcleod. Im very happy with mine and peddle pressure was not any greater than the Centerforce. It also used the standard TO bearing.
My notes show that the centerforce D21057S is rated for 500-550 ft/lbs torque ( I smoked 2 of them before going to the Mcleod).
The DF920830 is rated for 620 ft/lbs according to the Centerforce tech I spoke to.
The above part #'s are for a −2, btw.
Will

Now that the zf is out what is the process if I want to clean it /bead blast? Can it be done without taking it apart?

'rocky'had his walnut blasted .one of his posts has a photo.
.

quote:

Originally posted by Gunner:
Now that the zf is out what is the process if I want to clean it /bead blast? Can it be done without taking it apart?

Clean it well with a degreaser, then hit it with Eastwood's Aluma Blast paint. Looks like fresh abrasive blast finish, is more uniform, and much more resistant against corrosion.

Call McLeod, talk to Lee in tech, he will even give you the part numbers to order from summit.

quote:

Originally posted by Gunner:
Bought a nice 71 # 1628 from Dallas last year. Car smelt of clutch and was not hooking up and it was said to have a new clutch with less than 500 miles on it. Now 6 months later I pulled the ZF and begin the inspection. Is there a easy making on clutch to identify if Macleod , Centerforce etc? Will be taking off motor tonight. hope these 2 pictures load.