Current Source for Long Throw Slave Cylinder

you mean a Long trow slave cylinder located on the bell housing ?

it's different than the Master cylinder.

It's not always neccesery to mount a long trow slave cylinder .most of the time the standard slave works fine , the common problem is that people dont understand the adjusting system from the  slave cylinder by a M6 bolt and a heavy spring.

think on your system they are missing, thats why the former owner must pump up the pedal after parking a while.

can you post a picture from the slave cylinder ?

Simon

My stock one works for me however, I found this on line. Good luck!

https://www.panteraparts.com/techTips.php

A long throw slave cylinder makes the clutch pedal heavier too. Only use one if you find you don’t get enough clutch disengagement with the stock slave cylinder.

Changing to a long throw slave cylinder will increase the clutch pedal effort.

John

Larry has them...  I just put one on a car.

I second the heavier pedal feel with the long throw cylinder.  I've been to this movie with the hard clutch pedal.  I've switched back to the stock cylinder.

Panteras by Wilkenson should have them too.

You just have to take the time to get the adjustment dialed in, once you understand how it works it isn't that difficult to get it right.

Thanks for all of the feedback, appreciated.

Regarding the "long-throw" vs "oem throw" [for lack of a better term] slave cylinder topic, the issues raised with pedal effort are legitmate (and hey, I'm 61 with an artificial left ankle), but we're still talking about pedal effort with a hydraulic clutch, and I'm coming from experience with a regular clutch (like I had in my 65 Corvette).

On the pro long-throw side, my understanding (after reading up here and elsewhere) is they increase the disengagement distance at the flywheel, which is borderline too tight with the stock setup, and this will help the ZF synchronizers to live longer.  So, if there is benefit, I need to weigh that against the increased pedal effort.

And then there's availability. FYI Larry Stock @Pantera Parts Connection advises they no longer carry the oem unit (low demand) and only have the long-throw slave unit. Not sure about Wilkinson.

So that's where I'm at. Still leaning towards a long-throw slave unit, but really value all of the input and information here. Thanks

I have the Long Throw Slave on my car and am very pleased. It is stiffer, but you never notice it when actually driving the car. The pedal effort will be heavier than a 1965 Corvette stock clutch ( I have one). It will seem heavy when you first get in the car, but then you forget it. Study, get the correct slave adjustment pieces and make sure it is adjusted correctly, as with any Pantera clutch setup. It does definitely help shifting.

Unless someone removed it, your '73 should have the "Effort Reduction System" that is initially heavier than the early 'straight' linkage, but gets progressively easier the further down the stroke you go. Long stroke slaves cause a stock clutch to disengage further which saves your very expensive  ZF synchronizers from prematurely wearing out. At best with everything stock, you only get 0.020" of disengagement if you mat the pedal- which no one does.

All the usual Pantera vendors sell long stroke slaves (usually in rust proof stainless steel) as a kit that includes replacing the red plastic line with a braided stainless dash-3 hose. But if a long stroke slave doesn't cure your particular problem, changing clutch covers from the 3-finger Long-style clutch to a GM-style diaphragm clutch that lessens the pedal effort considerably. I've seen some that I could push in with my hand that did not slip.

Your biggest problem with non-Pantera clutch sellers is,  they see a Pantera and instantly think "race car" so they sell you a 3400-lb (or higher) racing assembly. The stock unit was a 2800-lb assembly at the flywheel, so be careful.

Bosswrench - helpful information, I have seen reference to Effort Reduction System in some materials, now I know where to place that (and it seems to be with my 74).  And the point you raise about the ZF synchros is what brought me to the idea of using the long-throw slave when replacing my slave cylinder.

So you guys think I should replace that 50 year old red plastic tube as well? The thought occurred to me . . .

@CTJackster posted:

So you guys think I should replace that 50 year old red plastic tube as well? The thought occurred to me . . .

Yes, Unless you want to absolutely keep the stock look (which only another Pantera owner will catch).

here is the adapter:

https://valexracing.com/produc...ic-12mm-to-3an-3-an3

I believe you need the 12mm to -4 AN version of the adapter fitting in the previous posting.

https://valexracing.com/produc...9&pr_seq=uniform

Besides a little extra pedal force at the beginning of a gear change (which drops off rapidly), the biggest problem with the stock effort reduction linkage is that it was built with mild steel links on mild steel pins and was last lubricated (maybe) while your Pantera was being assembled in 1974. So every pivot point is worn, all of which reduce the clutch action.

The aftermarket systems apparently use bushings and bearings at the pivot points so they actually give improved clutch disengagement.  Well worth the cost, I believe unless you own a milling machine and have a solid week of time to spend DIY.

@davidnunn posted:

I believe you need the 12mm to -4 AN version of the adapter fitting in the previous posting.

https://valexracing.com/produc...9&pr_seq=uniform

It's been a while, but I believe this is the braided line I used (3000 psi working pressure) with that same M12 x 1.0 to 4AN adapter from Valex Racing

Turbo Oil Feed Line 40" Steel Braided -4AN -4 AN 90 Degree line Made in The USA | eBay

2 Steel Brake Adapter Fittings M12 x 1.0 (Metric 12mm) to 4AN -4 AN4 | eBay