Dash1 transaxle.

Simon,

I have dash 1 bellhousing if you cannot find a complete unit. Also an early dash 2 with the dash 1 side plates that bolt to the bellhousing, it would still be dash 2, but look more correct as a last resort.

Julian,

Thanks for your reply , the Dash 2 with Dash 1 sideplates , will fit this also on the Dash1 bellhousing ?

regards

Simon

here are pictures of the ZF  bellhousing for Push-Button .  it is not the same as the 2 series

Simon,

A -1 has a 4 bolt pattern, a -2 a 5 bolt, the additional bolt is in the 12 o'clock position, but I have never checked whether the other 4 holes line up and the 5th could be drilled to match, I'd have to check.

Thanks Julian, from what I remember there also 2 studs , that make's 5 holes and 2 studs into the Dash2

Simon

Looked for photos last night, found this internal view of a -2. Regards, Nate

Nate, thanks .

I dont think a Dash 2 will fitt a Dash 1 Bellhousing.

Simon

@simon posted:

Thanks Julian, from what I remember there also 2 studs , that make's 5 holes and 2 studs into the Dash2

Yes, the two lower socket head bolts from inside a lot of owners just leave out so the ZF can be removed the bellhousing in the car.

I thought I saw that some just install studs to provide a bit more support in alignment, but the ZF can slide back over them for removal.

I'm not sure if that is truly buying you anything in strength, though.... 

Rocky

I'm not a ZF expert but I think the way it goes is, the dash-1 bell housing only bolts up to the dash-1 diff case which is 2 lbs lighter & narrower than a dash-2. The clutch release cross-shaft is shorter & smaller in OD than the dash 2 part & the throwout fork is smaller.The axle bearing side covers & gearbox end caps do interchange.

Thanks Bosswrench , this is helpfull information.

regards

Simon

After having the gearbox out a couple of times the idea of having only lower studs is interesting. Re the strength issue allot of the stress would be rotational torque becoming shear on the remaining bolts and potentially shear on the 2 lower studs. While the studs may be not as effective as a machine bolt secured on  the inside it still may give some structural effectiveness.

This change  would allow you to slide the box onto these two lower studs and may make for an easier clutch spine shaft alignment than the full gearbox / bell housing assembly.

If you did it please note that the clearance to the face of the pressure plate rotating assembly from the face of the inside surface of the bell housing will likely be less than 6mm. The studs therefore should only be slightly longer in depth than the bell housing depth.

Otherwise you could catch the clutch rotating assembly.

Which is bad.

Happened to a friend of mine .....!

Right, I concur with your “analysis”….

My opinion is that the two studs will be smaller than the bolt holes, and without clamping force on the housing from the two (original) bolts, they are unlikely to provide any support vs. the rotational force, unless the outer bolts / holes on the bellhousing yield enough that the two inner studs press against their respective hole walls.

But that’s just my WAG (Wild Ass Guess).

It all depends on overall transaxle alignment, and bolt hole tolerances.

I’m running without the bolts installed, with studs.  Never had to pull the transaxle yet, though.

Rocky

Still looking for a Dash1 .

Simon

Hi Simon, i think we need to be best friends…!     Seems we each have what the other needs. 😉👍🏻.   Let’s chat…..

Hi Rob, PM send.

Simon

Have you been able to find a -1 yet?  I may have one available (from 1417).  Still doing some homework but might be willing to trade.  PM me if you’re still looking.

Still looking for a Dash1 , complete or parts .

into The USA or/and Europe.

Simon

Still looking for a Dash1 Transaxle, complete or dismantled.

Simon