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The entire top side of my drivers side door of my Pantera has come out about 1/4 inch or so, and the bottom has gone in about 1/4 inch (see link below). I only assume that the top portion of the door hinge and maybe the stricker plate too has moved outward slightly over time (maybe loosened). In order to make the door shut completely, I have always had to slam the door pretty hard, and so I assume over time that this has caused the top door hinge to move outward somewhat because the rubber may be too thick around the door. Before I start messing with it to try and correct the upper hinge (which I only assume is the issue), is there any tips on procedures as to how this may be aligned correctly? Does the hinges have some adjustment room to slide in or out? It has become so out of wack that the bottom of the door is almost scraping the inner rocker area due to it toeing inward and the upper oportion toeing outward.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/97287519/119816133xZgUQT
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I took a stab at adjusting the door, and it seems that the upper hinges have some adjustment room, as well as the door jamb. So now it looks better when closed; however, I really have to slam the door very hard in order to shut it. I shrudder each time I do it. I think the rubber is too thick...that's what she said.
Try taking the rubber seal out of the top of the frame that goes around the door windows and swapping them between the right and left door. This makes the lip of the seal face the outside of the car and improves ease the door closure. Worked really well on my car that had all new seals. The door hinges are infinitely adjustable so it will be a chore to get the door aligned properly. Be careful how much pressure is exerted on the widow frame from the door opening seal because the widow frame can break loose from the door.

Mike
Mike's sugestion is a good one however one caution. I swapped my window frame weatherstrip then I couldn't hardly get the door open. I had to put them back. Dennis at PPC in Castle Rock recommends the door frame seals be installed per Mike's suggestion because they will seal the door better. This is opposite of what the factory did, I think.
quote:
Originally posted by BD:
Mike's sugestion is a good one however one caution. I swapped my window frame weatherstrip then I couldn't hardly get the door open. I had to put them back. Dennis at PPC in Castle Rock recommends the door frame seals be installed per Mike's suggestion because they will seal the door better. This is opposite of what the factory did, I think.



I failed to mention to coat the rubber with Armorall. The rubber will take a new set after a few days and then the door will open and close much, much easier.

Mike



[This message has been edited by www.PanteraPlace.com (edited 02-24-2004).]
I never considered the rubber around the window itself. I was concentrating on the rubber weather strip around the inside of the door. So I can try removing it and switching it from door to door, or just leave it out completely since the car doesn't see rain anyway. How is the rubber around the door best removed? Can it just be pulled out vertically?

However, somehow I still feel the weather strip around the inside of the door may be the problem. Since it isn't glued in with silicone, I can just remove it to see if there is noticable improvement also when shutting the door. Does this weather strip come in different thicknesses? I wonder that when the car was restored if a thicker rubber was used or not.
Removing the weatherstripping and leaving it out will radically increase wind noise inside the car. There was a POCA article in Nov newsletter reprinted from TPOC's newsletter on adjusting the doors. But you may be experiencing mis-adjustment of the window frames, not the door per se. The frames adjust as well, once the upholstered panel is removed. But screwing around with the alignment of the frames can slow down or stall the up/down motion of the power windows....
quote:
Originally posted by jack deryke:
Removing the weatherstripping and leaving it out will radically increase wind noise inside the car. There was a POCA article in Nov newsletter reprinted from TPOC's newsletter on adjusting the doors. But you may be experiencing mis-adjustment of the window frames, not the door per se. The frames adjust as well, once the upholstered panel is removed. But screwing around with the alignment of the frames can slow down or stall the up/down motion of the power windows....


Thanks Jack. The POCA article was good, but actually my vertical adjustment is perfect on the doors, but due to the rubber (weather strip) possibly being slightly big, it tends to put too much pressure on the door. So I was able to adjust the door where the bolts connect the door to the car (there is some adjustment room here too) and it fits nice now. So I think I just may need smaller rubber.

I called a Pantera vendor today and they said for the 72, the rubber should be smaller. I din't know that.

So much for the theory bigger is better.
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