Door hinge rework

Rod, I've never seen this topic covered. I've had mine restored by Kirk Evans in the past. However, I have several sets that could use refreshing and would love to know the secret. I hope an informed owner chimes in to apprise us.

quote:

Originally posted by UFO-LOW:
Looking for guidance on reworking the door hinges to reduce slop due to wear. I am thinking just to ream out to the next standard size, but it couldn't be that easy, is it?

I measure the original pin at .332 inch, or 8.43 mm. This seems like an odd size, not a round number in inch or metric. Between 21/64" and 11/32".

Is there any hidden trick to getting the original pin out? About what clearance should I look for when fitting a replacement pin?

Thanks, Rod.

... .3320" is a Size 'Q' Letter Drill.

I would:

1. 'Wire-Wheel' all paint and rust out of the cracks around the pin, then Soak the assembly Over-Night in Penetrating Oil, 50% to 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid To Acetone. It's 10 Times more Efficient than the Next Best P. Oil.
2. DO NOT try to hammer them apart with a Drift, It won't work! IT would be Too 'Springy' and you will destroy the Parts! You MUST Use a Hydraulic Press with all pieces backed-up and well SUPPORTED, and be careful NOT to 'Mushroom' the end that must Pass-Through the Assembly.
3. If a press does Not work...the pieces may have been 'Heat-Shrinked' upon assembly, in which case You will have to Drill or, Better yet, (Center-Cutting) End-Mill the Pin OUT!
This Must be done in a Milling Machine. A drill press is Just NOT Rigid Enough!!

...A Couple of tips:

Use Cutting Oil
If the Pin is Hardened (test with a File) You'll need to use a Carbide End Mill.
Ream to a Nominal .375 (3/8") and use a 3/8" Stainless Steel Rod for the pin. This will give a .002"-.003" Clearance. And You have Only removed .022" PER SIDE, Off the 'Strength' of the Assembly!
.003"-.004' TOTAL MAX. Should Suffice without Binding.
Now, if You were thinking about the 'Future', Cross-Drill, 1/16", the Pin Exactly AT the Pivot Contact Points and then Drill through ONE END ONLY, 1/16", to connect the Ports and Drill & Tap, 5/16" DEEP, for 1/4-28 Thread for a Grease ZERK Fitting.
Then You can grease them at will, Without Disassembling.

If You wish to Ream to the very next size. that would be a Letter 'R' Reamer at .3390" You won't Find One! You would need to use a 'Adjustable' Straight Reamer, to Just 'Clean-Up' the Bores. Need it larger to clean up the wear, the next size is 11/32 @ .3438" and for that size you may be able to find a Straight Reamer.
(and remember, One half 'Press-Holds' the pin, the other half, pivots Smoothly!) And Then you would have to turn down and polish that 3/8" Stainless Rod to a Precise Custom Fit, On a Lathe.

If You need help with it, Contact Me and we'll work something out.

Best of Luck with it!

Marlin - How much per hinge that I send you for repair or what sounds like an upgrade?

is the pin visible from the bottom?
would something like this work
Part NO# 31139 Door Hinge Pin Puller (c clamp like micro press)

I replaced my driver side hinges by buying new ones from Panteras by wilkinson back in 2002. As I recall they were not to expensive.

Marlin, I am confident they would be perfect!

John, my guess is that tool looks to short for our pins.

I have just had my hinges re pinned.
Briefly trying to remove a pin myself, I took them to a pal who repairs very old motor cycles.
He took all day to do the job, heating up the castings, pressing out the old worn pins, reaming the hinges and turning new pins on his lathe.

A very good job, the new pins made to resemble the old ones, and an expensive day for me at £120 for the 4 hinges.

Old engineers find this stuff run of the mill whereas the newer breed seem to make so many reasons why it is going to be so expensive!
all this stuff about hardened pins is probably OK, but the shear strength of a mild steel 6"inch nail is four tons……… what does the door weigh???????

So Peter -

How do your new door hinges work?

I oiled up my hinges and the door mechanisms, and now, on the driver's side, I have lost most of the "detent action" that used to hold the door open.

Is there anything special about the detent mechanism that I ought to know about?

Thanks -

Rocky

Peter - we need pix of your reworked hinges!

It

I don't know if this tied to the detent action. However, there is a limit function that prevents the door from opening to far and damaging the leading edge of the door. I've seen many a Pantera this this type of paint damage.

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:
So Peter -

How do your new door hinges work?

I oiled up my hinges and the door mechanisms, and now, on the driver's side, I have lost most of the "detent action" that used to hold the door open.

Is there anything special about the detent mechanism that I ought to know about?

Thanks -

Rocky

Peter - we need pix of your reworked hinges!
Rocky I sent them to be nickel plated, as soon as they come back I shall take some pics.

This should explain the detent action also.

It

nice topic...!

Great content Marlin...

Yes, thanks to Marlin and all who chipped in. I figured it would be more involved than it first appeared.