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So I came back home after being away for 6 weeks for work, changed my slave unit and also put in a ss hose to the slave (after reading all the counsel online) and took 4072 out for a run. After an hour my gas gauge dropped to empty, then it filled with smoke, i heard a sizzle and smoke came from behind the dash filling all the guages, the car then came to a slow halt but my fans were still running......thoughts? I figure i will pull the center console and start with the gas guage.......anyone experience this? Believe me pushing 3100 lbs over 3 kilometers is not a good way to spend a sunday.....
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Sounds like you're describing an ammeter fire. Perhaps one of the fuel gauge's leads was resting against one of the ammeter terminals. If the contacts on the back of the ammeter aren't tight, they get hot and eventually set the rubber boots on fire. If you're lucky, the only damage is to the ammeter itself. Just undo the three gauge panel screws and have a look at the rear of your ammeter. If it was indeed the cause of all the smoke, it should be obvious.

The solution has been discussed in the PI Forums many, many times.
dave;
I'll take a shot:
Since you state it started with your gas gauge dropping to empty, filling with smoke, etc.
Do you still have continuity with the yellow wire and the white/black wire from the fuel tank sending unit to the gauge? Did the low fuel light illuminate before going to empty. You should also have a yellow/black wire for bulb illumination hooked in series with the other gauges, as well as a pink wire in series with the other gauges. Does continuity exist through all the gauges? Also does the black ground wire make a good ground?
I guess with this description, I am attempting to isolate the fuel gauge as being the sole culprit, possibly within the gauge itself and showing no signs of external damage.
The wire colors I'm describing relate to my car but seems to be rather universal with the gauge wiring.
If you are looking to keep a stock look, here are a few options for you, in no particular order. #1 One would be the Volt meter from Hall Pantera. Looks very close but not exact to the stock gauge. #2 Have a gauge company like Redline Gauge works or Hollywood Clock take your old Amp gauge and keep the stock face while replacing the internals to a volt meter. I was quoted around $240. #3 Jon Haas (Pantera Electronics) is also now modifying the stock gauge to never burn up listed on his website at $249. Good luck
...Second Gauge from the Bottom.
I Like RED Digital Led.
Digital is most Accurate over Analog, In My Opinion.
Reading 11.9 Volts, Engine off, Key On.
Just after Starting the Engine, the Gauge will read 14.0+ Volts, Battery Charging. When the Battery has Rejuvenated, the reading lowers Down to 13.3-13.4 Volts Cruising.
Yes, I did eliminate the Amp Gauge, Just Bolted Both Cables together, and Insulated the Connection with 2 Layers of the Thickest INDUSTRIAL Shrink Tubing....a Great 'Peace of Mind' !! If Memory Serves, the Gauge Reads the Voltage off the Ignition, Or was it the 'Main Feed'?

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...For the Curious..
The Mini Toggle switch at the very top, marked 'Oil Temps', switches from reading the Engine oil to reading the Transaxle Oil, Temps.
This Gauge is the 4th Gauge, Mounted at the Bottom. (just the location it ended up)
The First, Top Gauge Reads 'Engine Coolant' Temp. Now reading 80F 'Garage' Temp as the Engine has Not been Run.
The Second Gauge, from the Top, Reads 'Engine Oil Pressure'. It now Scrolls 'LO' as the Engine is OFF, and it BLINKS On and Off, when the Pressure Drops Below 40 PSI. This Reading is Taken off the Very Rear Oil Port, in the Block (Stock Location for the Sender), expecting to receive the Lowest Reading Possible. If it were to 'sense' Directly off the Oil Pump, the Reading would be the Highest, but would Not be a True reading of the Actual Oil Pressure the Engine is Receiving, Through-Out.
The Bottom Temp Gauge, Now Switched to read Engine Oil Temp, reads a 'Garage Temperature' of 77F, Taken at the Twin Oil Filters, Before the Oil Cooler, All 3 Located at the Rear of the Pantera, AC Screen. ( the AC Condenser has been eliminated, and the wiring now runs a Fan on the Oil Cooler).
While the 'Engine Coolant', Taken at the 'Common' Location in the Block, just above the Waterpump...reads the Garage Ambient Temperature at 80F....interesting. Could be a Difference in the Resistance of each Wire, and/or The Senders, Themselves. The Senders Are Identical.
I posted this to perhaps Spark a few Ideas.

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Last edited by marlinjack
...Your Right!
11.9 Volts IS low, but not when you consider...
The car has sat un-started for a Month, The Key is ON and I have been Listening to the Radio and Disk Player for over an Hour. And all accessories are running, an Electric Antennae was raised, door lights, Windows Powered Down, etc. and on and on. The Engine will still fire right up.
When I first Turned the Key On, the Reading was 12.4 Volts. At this time I am Not using a 'Battery Tender'.

Thank You for Posting the Chart.

Rocky, Compliment taken, Thank You!
Last edited by marlinjack
quote:
Originally posted by JAG13CAT:
Marlin Jack; Curious as to where you're tapping into the transaxle to receive a temperature reading. Fill location?


...Yes, Exactly! I have a 90 Degree Fitting there, pointing Straight Up, so I can place a Funnel in it for filling. The 'Cap' is a Threaded Reducer for the 1/8 NPT Temp Sender. Make sure the Transaxle Housing has received a Proper 'Grounding'. The Sender just dips into the oil Level.

My Apologies for Hijacking this Thread!!!

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