Engine Pull in the Great White North

Hey Tom.

I'm about 80% done this project and plan to be 100% within the next week. More pix to follow. I have been very happy with the installation phase for the B-Quiet product. I am looking forward to the performance phase of the project, which will signal it's end!

Here's a pic of how I was dealing with the install phase of the B Quiet material. Very easy to work with ...

Here is the finished application of POR-15 and Chassis Coat on the driver's side inner fender and chassis. Both are excellent products albeit insanely difficult to remove from one's skin.

Note: check the "before" pix earlier in this thread for this same area. The difference in appearance is amazing. It's also good to know that this product is top of its class for future rust prevention. I am finding it hard to resist not painting the entire engine bay and underbody!

The "new" chassis ...

My hatch got stripped, peeled and painted before the B Quiet and new compression padding were added ...

Another angle ...

The B Quiet was very easy to lay over, although you need to patch some of the rounded areas ...

A reminder of the state of affairs prior to this project kicking off ...

Here's the passenger-side firewall and inner fender ...

The POR-15 is currently drying for that side - so I'm wasting time posting pix and resting my aching back!

Note the steel firewall plate I had fab'd. It's also drying (and stinking up the basement).

Another angle ...

Will I ever be able to clean up that mess of a wiring harness!?

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:
Another angle ...

Will I ever be able to clean up that mess of a wiring harness!?

Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by Husker:
Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

Got any pix to share, husker?

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:

quote:

Originally posted by Husker:
Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

Got any pix to share, husker?

I'll try to get them posted. Depending on my success at that, can I e-mail them to you? By the way, did some skiing in Banff, stayed at Lake Louise. Gorgeous country, wonderful people.

Have you found a replacement for the rubber cushioning that was affixed to the tank when you removed it? I'm refinishing my tank and I need to get some too.

Thanks,
Garth

McMaster Carr has an excellent selection of rubber in a variety of hardnesses and sizes (strips, sheets, etc.). I think I've used all of mine up on various projects. You definitely don't want to use that porous cushioning originally used.

quote:

Originally posted by garth66:
Have you found a replacement for the rubber cushioning that was affixed to the tank when you removed it? I'm refinishing my tank and I need to get some too.

Hey Garth. Have a look at my bulkhead hatch on the 5th page of this topic. I found self-adhesive weatherstripping at a few common auto shops up here. It was very reasonably priced. I also used some clip-on weatherstripping for the pinch-weld on the inside of the rear quarter panel (where the gas tank sits).

Let me know if you want some pix from under the car. I'm currently on an amazing road trip with my cat and will be home in 8 days!

Great job on the firewall! I've got my motor out and will be doing the firewall cleanup also. All this information is a great time saver. THANKS

Have you found the PQR 15 and Chassiscoat Black to be truly chip proof, etc?

Does it matter which side of the firewall you put the BQuite material on? I noticed on the hatch you put the material on the inside of the car with the aluminized side away from your heat source...any difference?

Hey Tom. Thanks, man.

I put the B-Quiet on both sides of the firewall - and covered the material on the engine side with steel plates that I had fabricated. My reasoning there was that I didn't want the B-Quiet exposed to the elements.

For the inside of the hatch, I used a heat gun and scraper to remove the stock 'goo' material and then treated with a high temp rust paint. I was expecting a little 'drumming' effect, but she's been dead quiet. Replacing the weatherstripping on the hatch require new (longer) bolts, but it has made a hige difference as the seal is now super tight.

POR-15 and chassis coat black are highly recommended. Tough as nails - just make sure you wear a long-sleeve shirt, gloves, mask, etc. Very strong stuff! I will be doing my entire underbody over the winter.

Cheers,
EA