Engine Pull in the Great White North

Lots of planning ... and grease!

We had to boost the rear end to get the hoist under the chassis and A-arms ...

We initially rigged up the Load Leveller, but later decided to pull with just the chains ...

The rear deck lid removal was surprisingly easy ...

I'm very proud of my "rack mount" system!

Thar she sits - in need of a little polishing ...

A little more elbow grease is going to be needed to modernize the firewall and clean up the chassis. Good news is that this is not major work - and it gives me something to do while the roads and golf courses are frozen.

And here is the real culprit ...

... my polluted fuel cell ...

... wish me luck as I await the cost of refurbishing it and get settled in to attack the firewall and engine bay!

Great stuff Erik. Good to know you have a bunch of helping hands. Keep us posted on the progress.

And what's up with the weather, dude? It looks like summer there!

Looks like a great winter project. When is spring in Calgary ?
Did you try to flush the tank via the drain plug ?
Also, I have never heard good things about Fram oil filters. For $ 10 I use a K&N or Mobile 1. The standard Motorcraft FL-1 ia also high rated.

Have fun and stay warm !

Jeff

62 degrees on Friday in Atlanta !

Wish I could have been there to help.

A local shop has reviewed my polluted & rusted fuel cell and has proposed to charge me $500 CDN to perform the following work ...

- steam clean tank
- acid wash interior
- neutralize interior
- coat interior
- fix and reseal rollover valve
- replace existing pick-up line
- fix existing pick-up line seal
- replace banjo fitting with 3/8 AN connector
- install second pick-up line with 3/8 AN connector

Question: am I getting a good deal?

My do-it-yourself solution would include doing the first four steps in my garage (acid? yuck!), finding my own AN connectors and buying a new rollover value and a new sending unit (with integrated second pick-up line). The last two items would easily cost me $200 USD, which means more like $400 CDN by the time exchange and shipping was factored. My current sending unit works fine.

Just thinking out loud here. I appreciate your thoughts ...

Thanks,
EA #3528

I don't know Erik, but I bet if you had told them the tank was from an '82 Taurus they'd have given you a much lower quote. Seems like more than you need to me, but I have never done that so I guess when it's my turn I'll find out.

Erik,

I have an extra tank with the top 4 items done.

PM me if interested.

quote:

- coat interior

Make sure what they use for coating is approved for all the new additives and alcohol now found in gasoline.

An old school coating may peel and flake, not what you want at all.

Larry

There are very few that will stand up to the new fuels and additives. When I recoated another members tank, we used "Red Kote" by Damon Industries, one of the few that we found that handles modern fuels. It creates a seal like a rubber bladder that stops leaks and snuffs out rust.

POR do a nice tank repair product, I think it is a two part mix, not sure on chemical stability with modern fuels though.

Maybe it's time to coax a vendor into getting custom bladders made to insert into our old tanks.

Julian

quote:

Originally posted by 4NFORD:
There are very few that will stand up to the new fuels and additives. When I recoated another members tank, we used "Red Kote" by Damon Industries, one of the few that we found that handles modern fuels. It creates a seal like a rubber bladder that stops leaks and snuffs out rust.

Thanks, Dennis. I double-checked and they are going to use "Red Kote" on my tank. That's a nice confirmation.

They are also going to paint the tank for me. So it looks like a deal.

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:
..... my polluted fuel cell ...

The coolant goes in the other tank Erik

Kidding, glad you had some help. Getting the engines out of these things is a handful even with two guys.

Blaine

Great work Erik!
I have a feeling that the engine will probably not go back in looking like that.
This is how it always starts......next thing you know your engine and engine bay will look like David B's
Thats not a bad thing.....

A further update ...

The following work has been completed on my fuel tank:

- steam clean tank
- acid wash interior
- neutralize interior
- coat interior (with Red Kote)

Ever seen a pic of the tank's interior? Well ...

I also replaced the rollover valve.

New one on left ...

Well, here's the finished product ...

All new gaskets and paint ...

The new rollover value was leaking a bit - so they smeared some epoxy on ... not ideal for cosmetics but it won't leak now!

I also upgraded the stock banjo fitting to a 3/8" nipple. The banjo fitting was a complete single point of failure piece that had already bit me twice ...

The bottom drain plug was badly corroded on the inside. I won't be taking it off anytime soon - so she's on there good and tight ...

Hey Erik,

I see your car came equipped with the ultra-rare Barbie edition fitted luggage. Nice!



The gas tank looks great. Isn't it fun putting "new" parts back in the car? I hope it solves all the problems you had and that you'll be ready for spring driving.

Mark

Wow, looks as nice outside as inside. Good luck with the install!

Thanks, gents.

Now, I am wondering if I should throw a layer or two of B Quiet on the tank. Regardless, I still have to add compression padding and weather stripping to the tank and inside fender wall - as per the stock config.

Erik,

I can't see any huge benefits from adding the stuff to the tank, but if there is any possibility that moisture somehow gets between the b-quiet and the tank, in a few years you may have some big regrets. I don't think that stuff is designed for "exterior" applications.

Good luck!

Mark

Maybe if you add the padding you won't hear how fast fuel is getting used...

Some nice weather allowed me to crack the garage doors today and get some more work done on my firewall. Here's a shot of the B Quiet applied to the engine-side ...

Passenger side of the cabin ...

I am planning to cover the B Quiet with new ss heat shielding on the engine-side. The templates are a lot of work!

I screwed up the first passenger-side template and resorted to using thicker cardboard. After a lot of measuring to figure out how to make cut-outs for all the wire/hose clips, I just said F-it and cut them all off the firewall. I'll add new hangers to the ss heat shield ...

Looks good! You can come do mine next, LOL. Give me a call when you get a chance.

Wade

Hey 3528....are you happy with the sound deadening material?

Was the material sufficient for heat? My motors out so why not. I was thinking about putting a stainless steel sheet over the firewall and wasn't sure what to put in between...BQuiet seems like a good option.

I love this forum...someone else shares all their researching and hard found ideas and it saves me sooooooo much time! Thanks

Hey Tom.

I'm about 80% done this project and plan to be 100% within the next week. More pix to follow. I have been very happy with the installation phase for the B-Quiet product. I am looking forward to the performance phase of the project, which will signal it's end!

Here's a pic of how I was dealing with the install phase of the B Quiet material. Very easy to work with ...

Here is the finished application of POR-15 and Chassis Coat on the driver's side inner fender and chassis. Both are excellent products albeit insanely difficult to remove from one's skin.

Note: check the "before" pix earlier in this thread for this same area. The difference in appearance is amazing. It's also good to know that this product is top of its class for future rust prevention. I am finding it hard to resist not painting the entire engine bay and underbody!

The "new" chassis ...

My hatch got stripped, peeled and painted before the B Quiet and new compression padding were added ...

Another angle ...

The B Quiet was very easy to lay over, although you need to patch some of the rounded areas ...

A reminder of the state of affairs prior to this project kicking off ...

Here's the passenger-side firewall and inner fender ...

The POR-15 is currently drying for that side - so I'm wasting time posting pix and resting my aching back!

Note the steel firewall plate I had fab'd. It's also drying (and stinking up the basement).

Another angle ...

Will I ever be able to clean up that mess of a wiring harness!?

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:
Another angle ...

Will I ever be able to clean up that mess of a wiring harness!?

Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by Husker:
Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

Got any pix to share, husker?

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:

quote:

Originally posted by Husker:
Yes!!! It takes some time but well worth the effort. I used some red shrink tubing on mine to brighten thing up a bit.

Got any pix to share, husker?

I'll try to get them posted. Depending on my success at that, can I e-mail them to you? By the way, did some skiing in Banff, stayed at Lake Louise. Gorgeous country, wonderful people.

Have you found a replacement for the rubber cushioning that was affixed to the tank when you removed it? I'm refinishing my tank and I need to get some too.

Thanks,
Garth

McMaster Carr has an excellent selection of rubber in a variety of hardnesses and sizes (strips, sheets, etc.). I think I've used all of mine up on various projects. You definitely don't want to use that porous cushioning originally used.

quote:

Originally posted by garth66:
Have you found a replacement for the rubber cushioning that was affixed to the tank when you removed it? I'm refinishing my tank and I need to get some too.

Hey Garth. Have a look at my bulkhead hatch on the 5th page of this topic. I found self-adhesive weatherstripping at a few common auto shops up here. It was very reasonably priced. I also used some clip-on weatherstripping for the pinch-weld on the inside of the rear quarter panel (where the gas tank sits).

Let me know if you want some pix from under the car. I'm currently on an amazing road trip with my cat and will be home in 8 days!

Great job on the firewall! I've got my motor out and will be doing the firewall cleanup also. All this information is a great time saver. THANKS

Have you found the PQR 15 and Chassiscoat Black to be truly chip proof, etc?

Does it matter which side of the firewall you put the BQuite material on? I noticed on the hatch you put the material on the inside of the car with the aluminized side away from your heat source...any difference?

Hey Tom. Thanks, man.

I put the B-Quiet on both sides of the firewall - and covered the material on the engine side with steel plates that I had fabricated. My reasoning there was that I didn't want the B-Quiet exposed to the elements.

For the inside of the hatch, I used a heat gun and scraper to remove the stock 'goo' material and then treated with a high temp rust paint. I was expecting a little 'drumming' effect, but she's been dead quiet. Replacing the weatherstripping on the hatch require new (longer) bolts, but it has made a hige difference as the seal is now super tight.

POR-15 and chassis coat black are highly recommended. Tough as nails - just make sure you wear a long-sleeve shirt, gloves, mask, etc. Very strong stuff! I will be doing my entire underbody over the winter.

Cheers,
EA