Engine Vibration

Here's a Romac for $237


Romac Balancer


I used the Pioneer from Summit - no complaints... Note that the Summit (Pioneer) unit is black, not chrome as it appears in the picture.

Summit Balancer

Found out my vibration was from the motor mounts as I took my motor out for a rebuild...

Tim

has the problem been resolved?

-G

If you have a stock balancer in your engine, making a chisel mark across the outer ring and inner hub is a common and simple way to check for outer ring debond in the future. Eventually, all of them will begin to move and after that, its only a matter of time before it wears a hole thru the timing chain cover or flies off, depending on which direction it moves. Both have happened. Setting accurate ignition timing will be impossible once the ring starts to shift.

I'm using a Professional Products Powerforce SFI balancer (#D-90006). Price is usually $245, but if you purchase it under the Scat part number (same number as a matter of fact), it's only $195. It's an SFI approved damper with a removable counterweight, just in case you someday rebuild your engine and balance it internally (like I did).
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scat-dampers.html

I purchased a Pioneer harmonic balancer. I've been off work due to a rotator cuff tear in my left shoulder....so I'm just waiting till it heals some more, and I can get my son in law to give me a hand. Thirty five years of wrenching on vehicles, does take its toll.
Anyway...I'll be back

Tim, we're not too far apart. If I can help, you are always welcome to contact me.

Thank you George for your kind offer. I'll get to this project hopefully before the end of the year. I would like to take my Pantera to the French/Italian car show Nov. 2 at Woodley Park. Great show with lots of wonderful cars. Leno usually shows up too, maybe he'll bring his Pantera! Anyway, take care.

Is there any tricks on the balancer replacement? Is it just remove the original pully, pull the old balancer, install the new one, and reattach the pully? Everythng lines up .. no spacers, no shims? Any tricks on balancer removal .. a puller, a big hammer .. whatever? And I assume that it can be done with the engine in place. (for you smart-a$$es .. I know .. remove the panel and hatch)

You need a puller to remove it. Pull it from the bolts that hold the pulley. Don't pull it from the outer ring. You will also need an install tool so that you don't damage the threads on the crank snout. It comes on and off just like any other American v8

Removal;
use a puller, no hammers. use a crank nose protector so you do not damage the threads on the nose of the crank. check for a spacer behind the balancer once removed.

Installation:
Clean and deburr both the fit and key way of both parts.
Measure your crank with a mic and the bore, you should have a tight interference fit, new balancers will give you the dimensions.
If using a new balancer check the nose length to ensure it's the same length.
I use permatex sealant on the key way and fit to prevent an oil leak from migrating down the key.
I use a length of all thread in the nose of the crank to pull the balancer on, large washers and a nut, lube threads on all thread.
You may have to jack up the front of the engine to do this, it's been a while?
Just prior to install I heat up the balancer in boiling water for about 10 mins, this lets the part heat up and expand open the the bore, it may slip on but be prepared to pull it on with the all thread,
Do not use a hammer as this will damage the balancer and axial main bearings, small dead blow cautiously is permissable
Torque your retaining bolt and your done.

If I missed anything, anybody please chime in

Good luck, Mark

quote:

Originally posted by TurboTim1:
Hello Everyone.
My 74 Pantera (still with the original 351)has been developing a slight vibration, that can be felt between 1800 to 2300 rpm. Sitting still or driving, it is very obvious.
My gut feeling is ...

a wise man once said, "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions" ~ Smokey Yunick

have you checked to see that your #6 & #5 plug wires are not running parallel from the dizzy cap tot he plugs?

it'll cost $0.00 to route them opposite directions from each other off the cap,
and each to their respective 'outside of the bundle' to the plugs

it's called 6/5 Inductive misfire

when #6 fires, current is induced into the #5 plug wire & it fires the intake charge not yet compressed in the #5 cylinder

IMO it's worth a look